British Travel Journal | Autumn/Winter 2025

WELCOME

As the days gracefully shorten and a crispness settles in the air, our thoughts invariably turn to the pleasures of the table and the warmth of a fine vintage. Indeed, as the cosy evenings in front of the fire and festive season approaches, who among us wouldn’t relish a prelude of exquisite tastes and convivial sips?

Perfect timing, then, for an exploration of unique harvest experiences across the British Isles (p60). In fact, this edition of British Travel Journal has been meticulously curated for the discerning palate, inviting you to embark on a culinary odyssey through Britain’s most compelling gastronomic landscapes. From the refined plates of North Cornwall (p80) and the flourishing natural wine scene in Devon (p68), to the UK’s first B Corp-certified independent hotel by the Thames (p44), and even a luxurious trip on the iconic British Pullman (p26), we celebrate the visionaries shaping the future of British epicurean excellence.

Beyond the plate, our exploration extends to Northumberland’s historic castle landscapes (p34), unique hideaways ranging from island retreats to Romanesque follies (p72), and Britain’s most breathtaking bedroom views (p54). For those seeking a deeper connection with nature, discover the restorative power of a Lake District stay, blending invigorating lakeside hikes with the exhilaration of the fellside sauna and cold water dips off the jetty.(p40).

As the season progresses, we’ve thoughtfully curated the UK’s cosiest cottages, perfect for seasonal adventures and evenings spent by a crackling fire (p92). Finally, don’t miss your chance to win a countryside escape to The Tempus in Northumberland (p24), a truly bold and beautiful boutique hotel.

As the cooler months unfurl, we trust this edition of British Travel Journal will ignite your imagination and guide your exploration of our enchanting British Isles

Jessica Jessica Way, Editor-in-Chief

Cover Image: Taymouth Marina, fresh from its feature in our last issue of British Travel Journal, has launched the UK’s first cruising sauna on Loch Tay © Phil Wilkinson; taymouthmarina.com.

Contributions: Amy Bonifas, Sophie Farrah, Emma Henderson, Jane Knight, Daisy May, Rebecca Pitcairn, Jessica Way

Published by: Contista Media; contistamedia.co.uk

PAWS IN PARADISE THIS OCTOBER

Discover dog-friendly stays on the Isles of Scilly

Explore Tresco and the Isles of Scilly archipelago this autumn, where island adventures await you and your four-legged friend. Roam coastal trails, play on deserted sandy beaches, and relax in a cosy cottage after a day outdoors. Even better, this October, dogs fly free with Penzance Helicopters.

TRESCO.CO.UK/DOGS

Tresco: 28 miles off the Cornish coast. Somewhere else altogether.

09 Travel news, autumn/winter

From Edinburgh’s latest hotel hotspot and a subterranean Oxford stay, to a whisky distillery’s new digs and unique self-catering havens, we bring you the freshest travel news.

24 Win a magical escape to Northumberland

Win an unforgettable stay at The Tempus, a bold and beautiful boutique hotel in Northumberland, where you can lose all sense of time amidst vibrant and eccentric interiors.

26 Spotlight on the British Pullman: a Belmond train

Embark on a nostalgic journey aboard the British Pullman, a luxury train evoking 1920s glamour, and discover the thrill of rail travel on an unforgettable day trip to Blenheim Palace.

34I capture the castle

Northumberland is home to more castles than any other English county. Jane Knight explores these magnificent strongholds, staying at the new Bailiffgate Hotel, perfectly placed for Alnwick Castle.

40 Another Place, another adventure

From a purposeful hotel stay at The Brackenrigg Inn – part of Another Place – in the Lake District, from adventurous lakeside hikes to invigorating cold dips, discover a truly restorative escape.

44 Checking in at the holistic hotel

British Travel Journal visits the UK’s first B Corp-certified independent hotel, Bingham Riverhouse in London, discovering how luxury, sustainability, and wellness flow effortlessly together by the Thames.

50 Finding new flavours in the Cotswolds

Discover a slice of Cotswold paradise, from hidden villages and honey-hued cottages to delightful farm shops and charming country pubs.

54 A room with a view

From tranquil treehouses and ancient castles to soaring city skylines and wild encounters, discover ten beautiful bedrooms across Britain, chosen for their unforgettable views alone.

Never miss another issue, subscribe to British Travel Journal and we will treat you to a delightful Bramley Gift Set! britishtraveljournal.com/subscribe

60

It’s harvest time

From a Beaujolais Nouveau-style experience in Devon to a truffle and bubbles tasting in Surrey, discover unique harvest experiences across the British Isles.

68 Natural wonders

From the glorious banks of the River Dart, to the heart of its vineyards, British Travel Journal discovers the booming natural wine world and how Sandridge Barton is leading the way.

72 Great British landmarks

From exploring island hideaways and romantic castles, to railway history and Romanesque follies, discover a collection of Britain’s most unique holiday homes.

80 Coastal

cravings

From Michelin-starred seafood to legendary cinnamon buns, and from luxurious coastal boltholes to the best extra bites, discover how North Cornwall’s thriving food scene is redefining coastal cuisine.

92 Cottagecore

As the nights draw in, discover some of the UK’s cosiest cottages, perfectly primed for seasonal adventures and snug evenings by the fire.

98

Clues & reviews

Wherever your autumn and winter travels take you, make sure you while away cosy hours with our latest style gift recommendations, from vintage-inspired carry-ons to instant cameras, and challenge your mind with our British Travel Journal inspired crossword.

Pure Adventure Pure Escapism

TRAVEL NEWS

autumn/winter

It’s harvest time, and we bring you the latest crop of places to stay, from a hotel by a whisky distillery to a folly at Royal Sandringham and a rural lochside croft

Text by Jane Knight

The Hoxton

Making its Scottish debut, the Hoxton has opened an Edinburgh outpost near Haymarket station, a short walk from the castle and the Royal Mile. Unusually, its 214 contemporarychic rooms are in townhouses on both sides of Grosvenor Street. With a teal and ochre reception and Italian restaurant, the hotel also has three-bedroom apartments for longer stays.

 Doubles from £150, room only; thehoxton.com

House of George W. Davies

First, he transformed retail; now he aims to do the same for hospitality. George Davies, the man behind Next, George at Asda and Marks & Spencer’s Per Una, this month opens a ten-bedroom hotel on Broadway’s high street. Set in a 17thcentury building, it combines charm with modern luxury. The fine-dining restaurant showcases local British cuisine with a Nordic twist

 Rooms from £275, with breakfast; houseofgeorge.uk

Burnham Beeches

If you’re looking for a decent-priced hotel stay that’s close to London, consider this Georgian manor house, fresh from a multi-million-pound refurbishment. Some of its slick, modern rooms cater to families or dog owners (four-legged guests are welcome throughout much of the hotel). There’s also a spa with pool, hot tub and sauna, and a brasserie.

 Rooms from £134, with breakfast; burnhambeecheshotel.com

Ardbeg House

Whisky lovers rejoice – Ardbeg, known for its peaty Islay malt and part of LVMH, opens its hotel in September following a multi-million-pound revamp of the former Islay Hotel. It’s celebrating with two new exclusive whiskies. Expect quirky, outré designs in the 12 bedrooms, bar and restaurant, with nods to Islay and Ardbeg

 Rooms from £230, with breakfast and distillery tour; ardbeghouse.com

The Fortingall

You’ll need deep pockets to stay at this ten-bedroom boutique retreat in Scotland. Not because the rooms are overly expensive, but because should you like anything from a vase or a lamp to the beds and baths within the rather swish interiors, you can buy it. The hotel is the first venture from luxury interiors company Anboise. Outside, the wild beauty of the Highlands awaits, with walks and outdoors activities on offer in scenic Glen Lyone.

 Rooms from £270, with breakfast; fortingall.com

Wilde

 Studios from £194, room only; wilde.com PERTHSHIRE

Its namesake, Oscar Wilde, may have studied in Oxford, but the aparthotel brand has opened its latest property in rival university city, Cambridge. A short distance from Jesus Green, it makes a great base from which to explore the historic city. It has a fitness room, all-day café and on-site shop, local art on the walls, and rooms in muted greens and pinks

Rudby Hall

Perfectly placed to explore the North York Moors National Park, this 19th-century home built for William IV’s daughter, Lady Amelia Cory, has re-opened as a boutique hotel under new owners Mark Booth and Suze Chomo. It has 13 rooms, an impressive library with wood-carved fireplace and two cottages in the ten-acre grounds.

 Doubles from £160, with breakfast; rudbyhall.com

The Other House, Covent Garden

With a rooftop bar offering panoramic views of the London skyline, The Other House Covent Garden is due to open later this year. Combining the comfort of a hotel with the freedom of apartment-style living, it will span seven historic buildings, including a former rectory. A striking inner glazed atrium will link the buildings, which will also house a gym, wellness centre, restaurant and lounges

 Apartments from £350, room only; otherhouse.com

The Netty

For a truly unique stay, this subterranean hotel, built from a Victorian public toilet, has launched newly refurbished suites with glamorous interiors inspired by the city’s history. Guests can enjoy premium toiletries, a hand-picked minibar, and a welcome cocktail. Located moments from Oxford’s historic colleges.

 Doubles from £170, room only; thenetty.co.uk

Stay at Sandringham

You don’t need to worry about the quality of your neighbours when staying on the 20,000 Sandringham Estate, much beloved by the Royal Family. Newly opened to overnight guests is the Folly, a beautifully restored, turreted retreat that was originally used by ladies to take tea. Expect stone hearths, arched doorways and hand-finished floors plus three bedrooms.

 A week for six from £4,200; oliverstravels.com

Great for Groups

This one’s got all the elements for a great group gettogether: private access to nearby Watergate Bay; hot tub with sea views; fire pit; a games room and a yoga studio. Watergate House, which sleeps up to 12 in five bedrooms – one of which is a family room – with five en-suites, is also dog friendly. It’s bang on the South West Coast Path

 A night for 12 from £351; luxurycottages.com

Lochside Living

You’ll get fantastic views of Loch Ewe from the living room with its open fire, the kitchen and the two bedrooms at this architecturally designed house which blends into the Highland landscape. Adults-only Lewie’s Croft comes with a private sauna to wallow in or a TV room for relaxing after exploring the area’s hiking and biking trails and hidden beaches

 A night for four from £350; coolstays.com

Bolesworth Bothy

If you fancy hiking all or part of Cheshire’s 34-mile Sandstone Trail, this little bothy makes a great place to hole up while you do so. Once a basic overnight stop for walkers, it’s now been transformed into a dog-friendly bolthole for two with modern comforts. It’s also just a five-minute drive from the Bolesworth Estate.  Three-night weekend from £635 for two; bolesworth.com

Coastal Cornwall

Fans of Doc Martin planning to visit Port Isaac on the North Cornish coast (where the series was filmed) might want to take a look at this refurbished cottage for four. With light, bright interiors and an open-plan living area, Shrimps is conveniently placed a short stroll from the harbour, with its cafes, galleries and restaurants, including Nathan Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen. There are also dramatic cliffside walks on the South West Coast Path .  Two nights for four from £578; latitude50.co.uk

Craster Cottage

Famed for its kippers and other smoked fish, Craster is also the gateway to the ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle, which is reached via a scenic 30-minute hike from the village. New to the rental market is the contemporary Water’s Edge, with four bedrooms sleeping eight people and an open-plan living space with folding doors opening onto a lovely sea view  Seven nights for eight from £1,785; crabtreeandcrabtree.com

Notting Hill Dream

Stay above the newly opened Permit Room, a Bombay-inspired bar and restaurant with wooden floor and ceiling fans on the Portobello Road. The apartment has a seventies feel, with teak furniture in the living room and a complimentary cocktail cabinet (guests can also ring down for chai). The two bedrooms have king-sized beds

 From £700 a night for four, with breakfast; permitroom.co.uk

Enjoy a Nature Stay

Get back into nature at Abelwood Lodge, set in a Devonshire forest by the lake, with miles of cycling and walking trails. Sleeping six in three bedrooms, the wooden cabin has bi-fold doors so you can flow out of the open-plan living area onto the deck. Return from a day at the beach or a meal at Woolsery’s Farmers Arms to toast marshmallows round the firepit or to soak in the bath with forest views

 Seven nights for six from £768; classic.co.uk

Cinema at Camber Sands

You can pre-order a movie pack, including a projector and popcorn and watch your favourite film on the exterior wall of Mandalay at Camber Sands. The three-bedroom house has two inner courtyards with seating, a chair hammock and BBQ as well as a large kitchen/sitting area. Better still, one of Britain’s best beaches is on the doorstep.

 Two nights for six from £780; camberholidaycottages.co.uk

EVENTS & EXPERIENCES

Autumn getaway

Woodland trails for leaf peeping from the door, Ludlow Brewery within tottering distance, and seasonal dinners… four-bedroom Salwey Lodge was made for autumn. It’s put together a special break, with optional extras including a foraged wreath-making workshop, venison supper with a local charcutier, and a bat and moth safari

 Two nights’ half board with afternoon tea and brewery tour from £299pp; thesalweylodge.co.uk.com

Behind the Scenes at Downton Abbey

If you’ve followed the saga of the Earl and Countess of Grantham, head to Highclere on September 13 to celebrate the release of the final Downton Abbey film, which was set at the castle. The evening event includes a Highclere gin cocktail, swing music, and time to explore some of the 300 rooms.

Highclere is also hosting A Weekend to Remember festival on September 6-7, celebrating the end of World War II

 Evening event £155, festival entry from £30; highclerecastle.co.uk

Leighton House: 100 Years Young

The opulent former home and studio of Victorian artist Frederic, Lord Leighton, celebrates its centenary as a public museum this autumn with a special programme. Delve into the museum’s transformation over the last century, explore recreated ‘lost’ objects, and discover contemporary art from the Middle East and North Africa

 Included with admission ticket, prices from £9; rbkc.gov.uk/museums.uk

Turner and Constable at the Tate

Featuring art that hasn’t been shown in Britain for decades, The Tate exhibition Turner and Constable: Rivals and Originals, runs November 27–April 12, spanning the 250th anniversary of the artists’ birth. Among more than 170 artworks is Turner’s The Burning of the Houses of Lords and Commons, lent by the Cleveland Museum of Art and Constable’s The White Horse.

 £5 to join Tate Collective; tate.org.uk

Live Like a Victorian

Journey back to yesteryear at Boloquoy farm and water mill, which has been painstakingly restored to its Victorian and early 20th-century origins. This summer you can book teas and tours at the historic farm on Sanday, which was owned by the Fea family from 1762–2023. From next April, you can also stay there, with sessions to learn ancient rural skills, homecrafts and baking or take wildlife tours

 Tours and teas from £33, five nights for six from £2,950; boloquoy.co.uk

Station Hall Reopens at Railway Museum

It’s a big year for railways, marking two centuries since the world’s first steam train made its first journey. York’s Railway Museum also re-opens its Victorian Station Hall on September 26 after a major refurbishment, in time for its own 50th anniversary. The 1870s freight depot operated until the 1970s and will continue to house royal carriages

 Free entry; railwaymuseum.org.uk

Christmas at Hever Castle

For a truly magical Christmas, step into the former childhood home of Anne Boleyn, where twinkling trees, roaring fires, and candlelit rooms await. Stay the night in a luxurious bedroom or indulge in a private festive dining experience in the elegant Tudor Suite Dining Room or the majestic Castle Great Hall. This year, the entire estate is being transformed into the enchanting Land of Oz for you to follow the Yellow Brick Road on a magical journey

 Prices for a stay from £215; hevercastle.co.uk

Royal Castles and Highland Rascals

Discover the wild Scottish Highlands on a luxury walking tour that delves into glens and valleys once roamed by cattle thieves. Enjoy stunning scenery, abundant wildlife, and dramatic Cairngorm views with off-thebeaten-track walks across moorland and peaceful glens. Plus, a private driver will take you to Balmoral Castle, beloved by the late Queen, and romantic Glamis Castle, home to the King’s grandmother, with a visit to a Highland farmer.

 From £4,565 per person (based on two sharing) for 8 nights; the-carter-company.com

Skate by the Lake

Yes, we know it’s a long way off, but winter is coming – and last year’s debut skating experience at Another Place The Lake was a sell out. Book early for this year’s skating, from November 17–January 10, in a bigger glass-panelled glass marquee for uninterrupted views of Ullswater. Stay the night for a complimentary session.

 From £17; another.place/the-lake

+44 (0)1872 553 491 enquirie s@ boutique-retreats.co.uk From cosying up fireside in a country cottage, to stargazing from a dreamy hot tub at your clifftop hideaway, escape the everyday and seek the magic of a staycation with Boutique Retreats. With over 260 luxury abodes to choose from, uncover our curated collection of luxury retreats, set in unique locations across the UK.

boutique-retreats.co.uk

Crazy Bear Embraces Wellness

Known for its decadent duo of indulgent hotels, The Crazy Bear group is embracing wellness, with the launch of an onsite gym and wellness space at its Beaconsfield site. It includes fitness classes, Thai massages, an outdoor pool and regular social wellness events. The concept is set to be rolled out to the hotel in Stadhampton, Oxfordshire, later this year.

 crazybear.co.uk

Running Retreats

Katherine Lowrie has run through South America with her husband; now they guide others at their Auchgoyle Farm retreats, two hours from Glasgow. The threenight getaways, in a timber-framed lodge or their farmhouse, include trail runs, saunas, yoga sessions, an art class, wild swimming and a rewilding walk, along with homemade, organic meals

 Three nights’ full board £620pp; auchgoylefarm.com

The ultimate winter retreat

For a true coastal escape, The South Coast Concierge and HIFE Retreats have crafted a luxurious Winter Wellness Retreat at Tors Park (25–28 November 2025) and are offering an £100 reader offer discount (quote the code BTJ100). Expect invigorating yoga, pilates, guided walks, and exclusive access to a sea-facing wood-fired sauna and ice bath. Pure bliss!

 Priced from £1,500 per person (or £850pp based on two sharing), inclusive of meals and activities; thesouthcoastconcierge.co.uk

WELLNESS

Wellness at the Royal Crescent

For a spoiling stay in Bath, the Royal Crescent hotel takes some beating. Combine a night there with a wellness retreat incorporating yoga, mindful breathing and Pilates sessions. Book now for overnight retreats on November 9 or January 18. The hotel spa now features treatments and produces from Irish brand Ground Wellbeing.

 One-night retreat from £372.50pp, with meals; royalcrescent.co.uk

Spa Skincare

Love a facial but want a little extra?

Then try one of the science-led treatments offered at Chewton Glen in Hampshire and Cliveden in Buckinghamshire. Following a partnership with Decree, the doctorled brand founded by Dr Anita Sturnham, the two hotels’ spas now feature a revitalising facial using the brand’s unique morning protocol, and a restorative treatment, using its products for the evening. A bespoke facial includes LED light therapy.

 60 mins from £160; chewtonglen.com, clivedenhouse.co.uk

Hideaway Spa Breaks

Love a spa but want some extra privacy? Gilpin Hotel & Lake House has launched Magical Wellness Hideaway packages for anyone recovering from illness, or who needs extra spoiling. It includes three nights in a spa suite or lodge with private steam room, sauna, treatment beds and outdoor hot tub and the chance to create bespoke skincare products

 Three nights with most meals, private spa journey and one treatment from £2,994; thegilpin.co.uk

Win a magical escape TO NORTHUMBERLAND

Escape to The Tempus, where you’ll be immersed in a vibrant, whimsical world and lose all sense of time

British Travel Journal has teamed up with The Tempus to offer the chance to win an unforgettable Northumberland escape.

One lucky winner and their guest will enjoy an unforgettable overnight stay at The Tempus, a bold and beautiful boutique hotel nestled within the peaceful Charlton Hall Estate. Just moments from the Northumberland coast and historic Alnwick, this is an escape like no other – a fusion of modern design and rebellious charm that will captivate you from the moment you arrive. Taking its name from the Latin word for “time,” guests are encouraged to lose all sense of it as

they unwind and relax. Your luxurious stay includes a delicious seasonal dinner for two at The Orangery restaurant, along with a scrumptious breakfast the following morning. The Tempus is renowned for its eccentric and beautifully curated interiors –think rich colours, statement design, and glittering disco balls, all of which create a vibrant and indulgent backdrop to your stay. Experience The Tempus’s captivating style for yourself. Enter now for your chance to win.

 Enter via our website britishtraveljournal.com/competitions Last entries 31 December 2025. Over 18s only.

THE TEMPUS

Nestled in the peaceful Charlton Hall Estate, The Tempus is a striking boutique hotel just minutes from the Northumberland coast, the A1, and historic Alnwick. With 52 unique rooms, bold interiors, and a playful edge, it offers a countryside escape like no other. Dine on seasonal dishes at The Orangery, sip cocktails under shimmering disco balls, or explore nearby castles and beaches. The Tempus blends contemporary luxury with charm in one of England’s most captivating regions.

www.thetempus.co.uk | info@thetempus.co.uk | 01665 579173

Join us for the ultimate winter retreat. 4 days designed to rest your body and recharge your batteries before the Christmas chaos begins!

Book your table and discover the beauty of Northumberland at The Tempus. ESCAPE TO THE TEMPUS, NORTHUMBERLAND’S BOLD BOUTIQUE RETREAT Email izzie@thesouthcoastconcierge.co.uk or visit hiferetreats.com/torsparkretreat

This winter: discover the ultimate retreat experience on the South Coast Tuesday 25 - Friday 28 November 2025

THE BRITISH PULLMAN

As Belmond’s brand-new luxury sleeper train, the Britannic Explorer, takes to the tracks, British Travel Journal embarks on a railroad journey like no other aboard the iconic British Pullman

Text by Sophie Farrah

There’s something deeply nostalgic and irresistibly charming about a beautiful old train, and none have quite such style, elegance, and historic significance as the legendary British Pullman. Today, this iconic train may transport passengers back to the romance and glamour of the 1920s, but its array of exciting journeys, which range from murder mystery escapades to gastronomic dinners cooked by Michelinstarred chefs, is designed to delight a modern audience.

I joined the train at London Victoria for a day trip to Blenheim Palace in Oxfordshire, and the sense of whimsical charm was palpable before I had even stepped on board. On the platform, glistening coupes of deliciously fruity rhubarb mead were handed out by smartly liveried staff, while a singer in glamorous period dress performed classics from a bygone era. Already, the mood was set.

Leading leisure and hospitality group Belmond own a collection of luxury hotels, river cruises, and safaris across the world, and the British Pullman is just one of its exquisite trains. As it pulled into London Victoria, it was as if an A-list celebrity had just arrived – commuters frantically scrambled to take a photograph, whilst some ran from the other side of the station just to get a closer look.

Carpets were carefully positioned in front of each of the train’s doors, immaculate signs hung from each carriage, and vintage table lamps glowed through the windows. The

train’s charming, dedicated crew, who have a combined 200 years of experience between them, were on hand to greet guests. I walked the length of the train, in awe of its grandeur, and eventually stepped on board.

Crossing its threshold, you can immediately sense the train’s glittering history. The ornate, carefully preserved Art Deco-style interiors are simply breathtaking, from the intricate marquetry, hand-stitched fabrics and period details to the fresh flowers and shining silverware that adorn the white linen-clad tables. Even the bathrooms – complete with stained glass windows and mosaic floors – are a spacious delight. Sitting at my neatly laid table, a vintage luggage rack of shiny, polished brass gleamed overhead, whilst intricately embroidered gold and cream curtains framed the view perfectly. As we pulled out of Victoria Station, it felt as though we had left the modern world behind.

Crossing the Thames at Battersea in southwest London, the mouth-watering aroma of freshly baked pastries wafted through the gently rocking carriages; they arrived at the table warm and laced with seasonal fruit. The aptly named ‘Battersea brunch bowl’ swiftly followed, filled with sweet seasonal berries, crunchy granola, creamy whipped yoghurt and tangerine syrup. Next, a deliciously indulgent smoked salmon royale, made with fish from esteemed London smokehouse H. Forman & Son, served with caviar, poached egg, fluffy English muffin, and a decadent hollandaise.

In honour of the Cipriani, Belmond’s legendary hotel in Venice, brunch is accompanied by a seemingly endless amount of fresh Bellini cocktails, made with ice-cold Prosecco and a seasonal pressed fruit purée (fragrant peach on my journey). To say that this got the journey off to a flying start would be an understatement…

After brunch, there was the opportunity to explore the train’s historic carriages. The first ever Pullman coach entered service back in 1874 and set the standard for luxury train travel in America before the company’s founder, George Mortimer Pullman, brought his business to the UK. Today, the train’s lavish carriages date back to the 1920s, with each bearing its own name, design fascinating history. Every friendly fellow passenger that I met seemed to have a favourite.

‘

A vintage brass luggage rack gleamed overhead, whilst intricately embroidered curtains framed the view perfectly....as we pulled out of Victoria Station, it felt as though we had left the modern world behind’

There’s Audrey, which was damaged in a Second World War air raid in 1940, and carried Queen Elizabeth II, The Queen Mother and H.R.H. Prince Phillip. Perseus formed part of Winston Churchill’s funeral train in 1965, while Phoenix carried General Charles de Gaulle. More recently, Paddington 2 was filmed on board. I travelled in Gwen which was built in 1932 and once conveyed H.M Queen Elizabeth (later The Queen Mother) to Brighton in 1948. Meanwhile, the striking interiors in Cygnus are particularly unique - all elegant emerald green and sleek walnut wood, the carriage was recently redesigned by American filmmaker Wes Anderson, and features his signature symmetrical lines, eyecatching colour palette, and Art Nouveau-inspired style.

Free from the city, the train upped its pace as we passed Windsor, Reading and Henley-on-Thames before speeding through a picturesque patchwork of fields dotted with

sheep, meandering streams and chocolate box villages with towering church spires. It couldn’t have been a more perfect pastoral scene.

From the comfort of my sumptuous armchair I watched as the vistas changed and absorbed the thrilling sense of adventure that seems unique to rail travel. This luxuriously slow mode of exploration was once filled with unexpected discoveries and brief encounters along the way, and on board the Pullman I relished in that very same feeling of opportunity and nostalgic excitement. It felt as though anything was possible, or maybe that was the Bellini talking….

Soon, we pulled into Oxford Parkway station and were seamlessly ushered onto a fleet of smart coaches which made the 15-minute drive to Blenheim Palace. Much like the Pullman, the ancestral family home of the Dukes of Marlborough is another icon of British history. Built

between 1705 and 1722, Blenheim Palace is a masterpiece of Baroque architecture, one of England’s largest houses, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s also the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill, and has appeared in countless films and TV series, from Bridgerton to Bond.

With just over four hours to explore, I strolled amongst the stunning formal gardens, grand fountains and sweeping parkland (landscaped by Capability Brown, no less) before venturing inside the Palace’s historic walls. A guided tour took me through the staggeringly opulent Palace State Rooms, followed by a fascinating Churchill Exhibition and a new immersive experience that explores ‘life below stairs’.

I then wandered across the sprawling walled garden, took a ride on the Palace’s miniature train (not quite the Pullman, but similarly charming), and even had time to explore the impressive gift shop. Later that afternoon, the coaches were on hand to whisk us back to the station where we made it just in time to watch the British Pullman majestically glide in. Back on board, the tables had all been immaculately re-laid for dinner, corks were popped, and the Champagne flowed.

Much like brunch, dinner is a gastronomic affair. Menus on board are designed by Head Chef Jon Freeman with a focus on local ingredients and British dishes with an innovative twist. A succulent piece of Cornish hake came first, with a silky warm tartar sauce, sweet Windsor beans and tangy red pepper. More fish followed for me – a well-

cooked salmon fillet on a bed of gently spiced and deeply satisfying kimchi spelt and smooth sweetcorn purée, whilst meat-eaters tucked into rump of Kent lamb, with spring greens and lamb sauce. There’s an extensive wine list on board and an excellent selection of bottles from some of the UK’s very best vineyards, many of which the train visits during the summer months. I chose Gusbourne’s Guinevere Chardonnay – buttery, rich and laced with lemon, it paired perfectly with the fish, and dessert…

As the sun set over the beautiful British countryside, I sat immersed in the splendour of the train and savoured every mouthful of smooth lemon tart, served with preserved lemon cream and the satisfying crunch of sweet hazelnut praline.

Having fallen firmly under Pullman’s luxurious spell, I began plotting my next route. All year round, passengers can embark on various journeys from London, from full days out to shorter Sunday lunch and dinner trips. In the summer, there are adventures to vineyards and distilleries, charming seaside towns, and seasonal events such as Goodwood’s Festival of Speed. During the winter months, the train dons its festive finery and heads to Bath for the Christmas markets and Canterbury for the carols, as well as hosting cosy seasonal lunches and a sparkling New Year’s Eve celebration on board. Decisions, decisions…

For a longer trip, Belmond’s luxury sleeper train The Royal Scotsman explores the glorious Scottish Highlands. With exquisite interiors and breathtaking views, it takes passengers on epic and exceptionally luxurious two- to sevennight journeys with wild swimming, foraging, water rafting, whisky tastings, castle visits and so much more along the way.

Another tempting option is Belmond’s hotly anticipated Britannic Explorer – the first luxury sleeper train in England and Wales, which launched in summer 2025. This pioneering,

meticulously designed train whisks guests from London on unforgettable three- and six-night journeys through Cornwall, The Lake District, and Wales, with onboard menus created by Michelin-starred chef Simon Rogan, a pioneer of sustainable British gastronomy. Both trains feature five-star service, sumptuous suites, opulent bar and dining carriages, observation cars, and even on-board spa treatments. I am not sure that I would ever get off…

As London’s skyline ebbed ever closer, delicious handrolled truffles and excellent coffee (from H.R.Higgins – one of London’s finest merchants) were served, presumably to soften the blow of our imminent disembarkation. Soon, the train eased back into Victoria Station. I reluctantly stepped off and bid a fond farewell to both the wonderful crew and the magnificent train itself, feeling honoured to have joined its list of illustrious passengers. Re-entering the hustle and bustle of the city, I floated through the station still contemplating my next railroad adventure, filled with the joys of my dazzling day trip back in time.

 Journeys on the British Pullman start at £435pp. A round trip to Blenheim Palace starts at £725pp and includes a 3-course brunch, transfers to/from the Palace, entry to the Palace, a Champagne welcome back on the train, and a 3-course dinner with wines, petits fours, and tea/coffee. belmond.com/trains/europe/uk/ belmond-british-pullman

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I capture THE CASTLE

A new hotel right on the doorstep of Alnwick Castle makes the perfect base for exploring Northumberland. Jane Knight goes castle-hopping in the county, which has more fortresses, keeps and strongholds than any other part of England

Text by Jane Knight

Talk about soaking up the view. I’m lying in the freestanding bathtub, gazing straight out at the battlements of Alnwick Castle. Steam curls above the water, the light catches on the sweep of ancient stone, and for a moment it’s hard to tell whether I’m in the 21st century or the 13th.

Britain’s second largest inhabited castle after Windsor, this magnificent medieval pile has been the seat of the dukes of Northumberland for centuries, evolving from a Norman fortress to neo-Gothic palace and a filming location for everything from Harry Potter to Downton Abbey. Right now, though, it’s starring in my bathtime.

I’m in the Bailiffgate Hotel, Northumberland’s newest boutique property, with 48 rooms barely a bowshot from the

castle. Owned by the duchy estate and managed by Bespoke Hotels, it’s partly set in the Duke of Northumberland’s old Commissioner’s House, which later became the market town’s high school.

Now the suites in the Georgian townhouse – where you’ll get the full soak and stare castle experience – are more boutique than blackboard in style, and roomy enough for a class of children. There are also less expensive (though less characterful) castle-view rooms in a large, modern annexe, where the contemporary restaurant and garden room also look onto crenelations and curtain walls with arrow slits.

Given the hotel’s past, it’s no surprise to find that some of the staff were pupils here when it was the Duchess High

School. ‘I always said I’d never go back to school,’ receptionist Tracey Friar tells me as my son and I register at the former school office, just over the corridor from the swish hotel bar.

‘And look where I’m working now.’ History lessons must have been a doddle with that lot looming outside the window.

Today, you couldn’t choose a better base for a castlehopping tour of England’s least overrun county. Wedged up against the Scottish border, and the site of frequent

skirmishes between the two countries as well as invasions from across the North Sea, Northumberland has more castles than any other county in England – more than 70 of them – and a cluster are easily reached from the Bailiffgate on a route that reads like a chapter from a medieval chronicle.

But first, Alnwick, home of the Percy family for more than 700 years, is so close to the hotel that it feels like we’ve pitched up right at the portcullis. You don’t have to be a

nine-year-old Harry Potter fan to get drawn into a broomstick lesson in the outer bailey, where Daniel Radcliffe first took flight and Neville Longbottom memorably got tangled up on the Barbican Gate.

Which is how I find myself galloping around the grass with a broomstick between my legs baa-ing like a sheep (my chosen ‘motor noise’) while my 19-year-old son does the same, quacking like a duck. Wizard Wendy Wigglesworth, our instructor, looks on approvingly and hands over our flying licences with a flourish.

There’s more high culture within the castle walls, though you’ll need to recalibrate from Hogwarts to High Renaissance. Past the Norman arch and rounded medieval towers, the interiors are unapologetically grand – think pinepanelled ceilings, Versailles cabinets, and a decent collection of Canaletto, Titian and Van Dyck.

Fans of Downton Abbey may recognise the marble-lined staircase and cavernous dining room. I preferred the library, with its 14,000 books along with a ‘lived-in look’ lent by family photographs and Sky remote on the footstool beneath a portrait of the current duke and duchess. (There are also full-size family portraits in the hotel, to create a link between the building and its past, and to spark conversation).

Outside, the Capability Brown landscape rolls gently away, but it’s the duchess’s revival of the formal gardens that provides the real showstopper. Chief among the topiary and cascades is the Poison Garden: a locked-off enclave of things that sting, paralyse or kill. Here we find the stingiest nettle in the world, the gympie gympie, so dangerous that the gardeners wear hazmat suits when tending it.

We pick up helpful tips, too, including the fact that menthol toothpaste is better than dock leaves for nettle stings, while using a hedge cutter to prune cherry laurel isn’t a good idea, as it releases cyanide. ‘We’ve had 68 people faint so far this year, imagining they’re being poisoned in the garden,’ says team leader John Knox, who keeps an eye on visitors. ‘And once a woman tried to steal some belladonna.’

For all the deadly flora, we emerge from the Poison Garden oddly peckish. Fortunately, back at the Bailiffgate’s somewhat stark restaurant, food is one of the draws – all beautifully cooked and zinging with flavour. The scallops are a standout, served in a curry sauce with prawns and an onion bhaji.

Another day, another castle, this time one that’s more ruin than residence. Dunstanburgh is a giant of a fortress flung dramatically on a headland above the crashing North Sea. It’s the wildest of Northumberland’s castles, not least because to get there, you need to walk.

We set off from the fishing village of Craster, famous for its kippers and its bracing sea air, and follow a path threading its way along the coast. The castle teases you from afar – first a blur on the horizon, then a silhouette, and finally the twin towers of the gatehouse rising from the sheep-grazed fields. Thomas, Earl of Lancaster, started building it as a power base in the early 14th century for his rebellion against Edward II, but he lost his head before the last stone went on. Now roofless and skeletal, Dunstanburgh’s full of drama with its broken towers and jagged walls.

www.bailiffgatehotel.com

‘Welcome to English Heritage’s most remote site in the country,’ says site manager Andrew Swinburne, who strolls this scenic commute to work in 20 minutes, weather permitting. It’s a summer’s day when we visit, but we imagine the sight on a blustery day, with the wind screaming round the gaping windows, seabirds circling the cliffs below.

From here, the coast keeps calling. It’s another hour or so’s walk north to The Ship Inn at Newton-by-the-Sea, or, if your legs are protesting, a 15-minute buzz in the car. Either way, it’s worth the journey. The seafood in Northumberland is just-plucked-from-the-sea fresh, and here the local crab is the dish to order to refuel after all that castle clambering and coastal wind.

Over dinner, we check the tide tables – essential reading if you’re planning a trip to the Holy Island of Lindisfarne, which is cut off from the mainland twice a day by the North Sea. It turns the journey into a minor pilgrimage, which feels fitting: this was the cradle of Christianity in the north, home to seventh-century saints Aidan and Cuthbert, and later an 11th-century priory modelled on Durham Cathedral.

From its ruins, we can see the fortress-style Lindisfarne Castle, perched on a rocky knob and built by the Tudors to keep the Scots at bay. It’s another bracing hike and a final climb up a steep slope to reach it – but unlike Dunstanburgh, this one’s not a ruin. In the early 20th century, Edward Hudson, founder of Country Life, and his architect friend Edwin Lutyens, turned it into a private holiday home, complete with a domed dining chamber, a cosy living room and sea-facing bedrooms. There’s even a Gertrude Jekylldesigned walled garden tucked away behind stone walls.

From the rooftop, with its faux arrow slits added to give it more of a castle feel, we spot our next target: Bamburgh Castle, rising from a 150-foot basalt outcrop like it was born to be on a movie poster. So it’s no surprise that it’s had a few starring roles, including Mary Queen of Scots and Indiana Jones and the Dial of Destiny. When we get there, half an hour’s drive down the coast, it doesn’t disappoint: a sprawling array of towers and turrets wrapped around a medieval keep, silhouetted against the sea.

Long before the Normans pitched up, this was a royal stronghold where the kings of Northumbria were crowned. It’s weathered sieges, storms and Scottish incursions, and in 1464 earned the dubious honour of being the first castle in Britain to fall to cannon fire during the Wars of the Roses. In 1894, Victorian arms magnate and inventor William Armstrong bought it, moved in, knocked a few bits down and built himself a rather grand mansion.

Inside, it’s a spirited mix of styles – part medieval keep, part Victorian showpiece, with private apartments tucked away in one direction and a couple of castle holiday lets in another. This summer, the star turn is the King’s Hall: all vaulted drama and theatrical hammerbeam ceiling, currently hosting props from TV series The Last Kingdom, including the throne itself (yes, you can sit on it).

But the real joy lies outside. Cross the sand dunes to the golden swathe of beach and look back at the battlements etched against the sky to see the whole thing rising from the rock like something summoned by CGI. And if you’re brave enough for a dip in the North Sea, you’ll earn another soakwith-a-view moment – different castle, but a story-book view that’s just as spellbinding.

 The Bailiffgate Hotel has B&B doubles from £149 a night (bailiffgatehotel.com). Tickets to Alnwick Castle cost £21.55 (alnwickcastle.com) and £18.95 for The Alnwick Garden (alnwickgarden.com), with visits to Bamburgh Castle costing £18.75 (bamburghcastle.com). Entry to English Heritage’s Dunstanburgh Castle and Lindisfarne Priory costs £7.50 and £12.70 respectively. Entry to the National Trust’s Lindisfarne Castle is £12.

ANOTHER PLACE,another ADVENTURE

British Travel Journal discovers how the familiar magic of the fells, invigorating cold dips in the lake, and the comfort of the Brackenrigg Inn at Another Place combine for a truly purposeful and restorative escape

Text by Jessica Way

Have you ever found yourself drawn back to a beloved hotel, wondering if the magic will still be as potent? The true measure of a favourite place often lies in whether a second visit can recapture the exhilaration of the first.

That beloved destination for me is Another Place in the Lake District. For months, I’ve found myself regaling friends and family with tales of the sublime days we spent there: the exhilarating dips in the lake, adventures coasterring, the local walks and the beautiful hotel framed by the majestic mountain views.

There are three restaurants to choose from: the refined Rampsbeck Restaurant with an open kitchen, and flavours that occur naturally within the landscape, the relaxed ambience of The Living Space and the Victorian-style Glasshouse neatly positioned next to the vegetable and herb garden serving woodfired pizzas by the water’s edge. And for those seeking a more traditional taste of the Lakes, The Brackenrigg Inn, the hotel’s own wonderful, welcoming pub, is just a short stroll from the hotel.

It is super easy to lose track of time enjoying fellside sauna sessions and invigorating dips in the lake, swimming lengths of the pool and bathing in the hot tub, and there’s a host of other active-wellness pursuits too, including

paddleboarding, kayaking, archery - and even wing foilingpart wind power, part board sport.

However, our return this time was imbued with a deeper purpose: we were there not merely for leisure, but to participate in the annual Mighty Hike marathon, an inspiring challenge undertaken each June in steadfast support of Macmillan.

With over 2,000 enthusiastic hikers descending upon the region, it was no surprise to encounter a few fellow ramblers at the hotel and The Brackenrigg Inn – our base for

the weekend, offering full access to Another Place’s facilities. Amongst them, an endearing gentleman at the bar shared a poignant story: he had returned to Another Place for the Mighty Hike every year for the past nine, his annual challenge beginning with a group of five friends, initially in support of a close companion newly diagnosed with cancer. Tragically, over the years, each of his other friends has also faced a

diagnosis, leaving him as the last one standing, now raising money in honour of every single one.

These formidable Macmillan Mighty Hikes are a series of one-day half and full marathon fundraising expeditions (May to September each year) in some of the UK’s most breathtaking landscapes. There are twelve destinations, including the Yorkshire Dales, Gower Peninsula, and the

Norfolk Coast. You might have read my previous articles after taking part in the Jurassic Coast and South Coast marathon events - this time I’m heading north to take on the full-lap challenge of the stunning Ullswater Lake.

And it is a great year to be doing it, as 2025 marks the 10th anniversary of the series, which, since its inception in 2015, has impressively garnered a grand total of £70 million for those affected by cancer, driven by their own deeply personal motivations.

Yet, regardless of the season, walking remains an indispensable pursuit for guests at Another Place. With an abundance of walking guides readily available in the lobby, Wainwright’s wisdom gracing their library shelves, and OS Maps at the front desk, Another Place is deeply embedded in Cumbria’s rich hiking heritage – truly, it is always the opportune moment to lace up your boots in the Lake District.

For seamless access to those perfect trailheads, Another Place has partnered with Land Rover Discovery, offering guests the complimentary use of a vehicle for their entire stay. Choose between a five-seat Discovery Sport PlugIn Hybrid or a seven-seat Discovery, and easily explore

most awe-inspiring routes with their refreshed collection of hiking guides.

Our inaugural visit to Another Place led us to the captivating Aria Force/Gowbarrow walk, a trail that

seamlessly weaves together some of the Lake District’s finest landscapes with the breathtaking spectacle of the Aira Force waterfalls. While navigation can be a touch intricate for the less seasoned rambler, making it ideal for a clear day, the rewards are immeasurable, with the possibility of spotting red squirrels. After marvelling at the cascades, the path continues upwards around Gowbarrow, unfurling truly panoramic views of Ullswater below. An OS map and compass are advised for this 7km, two-hour journey into Cumbrian beauty.

Another of the hotel’s most popular walks for guests is Hallin Fell. The Lake District abounds with fells to conquer, but sometimes, the most profound beauty isn’t found in sheer scale. Hallin Fell is a testament to this, standing at a modest 388m, yet offering some of the national park’s most magnificent vistas. For first-time fell-walkers, or those pressed for time but eager for a taste of the fells, few hikes can rival Hallin Fell in the scenery stakes. This delightful 1.9km, hour-long hike, easily navigable in most weathers and conquerable in under thirty minutes, is located on the east side of Ullswater, near the charming hamlets of Howtown and Martindale. Described as the best short walk in the area, it rewards with astounding views of the entire length of the lake. While a short, steep ascent from the old Church starts the journey, reaching it is a breeze – a 15-minute drive to Pooley Bridge, or a bus ride before catching the iconic Ullswater Steamer to the quieter eastern shore. This side of the lake offers wonderfully peaceful fell walking; while a narrow road runs along it, the steamer offers the most idyllic start to your adventure.

Then there’s the Ullswater Way, a truly immersive journey around the lake itself – and indeed, this was our noble quest for Mighty Hike day. Our day began with a mountain-worthy breakfast at the gorgeous Brackenrigg Inn, setting us up perfectly for our Lakeland adventure. Following our invigorating walk, the promise of warmth

and relaxation beckoned; a refreshing swim in the lake from Another Place’s private jetty, and a blissful lakeside sauna experience melted away any lingering fatigue, easing our legs after the miles traversed.

As dusk settled, we savoured the culinary delights at Another Place’s The Living Space restaurant, before a magical stroll back to the Brackenrigg Inn under a canopy of dark skies and a million stars, culminating in the best night’s sleep imaginable. As for my second stay at Another Place, that intangible magic I’d so fondly remembered? It wasn’t merely undimmed; it had deepened. There’s always ‘another’ time to visit Another Place, and on this occasion, I can say that I’ve been there, I’ve done it, and I’ve got the Macmillan T-Shirt.

 Rooms at the Brackenrigg Inn start from £150 a night B&B in June (or £180 a night in November) with access to all the elements of Another Place hotel, including the pool, the restaurants and sports.

CHECKING IN at the HOLISTIC HOTEL

Down by the river in south west London, Bingham Riverhouse is rewriting the rules of the modern escape. British Travel Journal checks in to the UK’s first B Corp–certified independent hotel for an experience where luxury, sustainability, and wellness flow effortlessly together

Text by Sophie Farrah

Perched on the banks of the Thames in leafy south west London, Bingham Riverhouse is all about balance. Yoga classes unfold in its picturesque riverside gardens, while ‘mindful mini-bars’ tempt with cans of CBD-infused bubbles instead of alcohol.

Downstairs, the award-winning restaurant serves a strictly seasonal, sustainability-led menu, while in the lively members’ bar, cocktails flow alongside mugs of ceremonial-grade cacao. It’s hedonism, made healthy.

At the heart of it all is a desire to nourish both people and planet. In 2024, Bingham Riverhouse became one of the first B Corp–accredited hotels in the UK – a testament to its commitment to social and environmental performance, transparency, and accountability, both as a hotel and as an employer.

Stepping through its understated blue front door, this handsome Georgian townhouse feels more like a private home than a hotel. Perhaps it’s the genuinely warm welcome from the friendly staff, or the twinkling river views visible from nearly every stylish corner. Much of the house’s warmth,

‘From different styles of yoga to breathwork, sound healing, and more, there’s something on offer every day, designed to soothe the stresses and strains of modern life’

however, comes from its owner, Sama Trinder (pictured left with executive chef Vanessa Marx, right) – a self-confessed former ‘hellraiser’ turned yoga teacher, energy worker, and entrepreneur, with a passion for weaving wellbeing into everyday life.

Based within the hotel is bhuti – a wellness sanctuary offering holistic treatments, a variety of classes, transformative workshops, and retreats, many led by Sama herself. From different styles of yoga to breathwork, sound healing, and more, there’s something on offer every day, designed to soothe the stresses and strains of modern life. Whether you choose to partake or not, it adds a sense of serenity to the house; crystals subtly twinkle in corners, tea lights flicker, and the occasional waft of incense drifts through the cosy corridors.

That said, it’s not all meditation and gong baths. Step into the beautiful drawing room and you’re greeted by tall, ornate ceilings, vast river-facing windows, and a buzzy bar where cocktails are shaken and records spun.

The walls are lined with colourful artwork and rows of vintage Penguin Classics, while a striking dried floral display frames the open fireplace. The house’s characterful past is palpable: once a literary and artistic hub, it was home to poets Edith Cooper and Katherine Bradley – writing together as Michael Field – and frequented by the likes of W.B. Yeats, John Ruskin, and more. In 1984, Sama’s Kenyan mother, Ruth, and English father, Bill, bought the property as part family home, part quirky B&B, before Sama took the reins in 2001 and transformed it into the holistic haven it is today.

Upstairs, 14 luxurious bedrooms are tastefully styled with sustainable mid-century furniture, leafy terrariums and calming neutral tones. I checked into a ‘Best River Room’ – a spacious, light-filled retreat with panoramic views over the glittering Thames and pretty gardens below. Beneath an elegant bay window, a hand-forged copper bathtub gleamed in the daylight, accompanied by generous glass bottles of La Eva’s natural and organic products. The supremely comfortable king-sized bed is also ethically sourced and organic (at least the mattress is) and dressed in silky-soft sheets, a cosy wool throw, and cheerful pink velvet cushions. Having encountered my fair share of mini-bars, I was both surprised and impressed by the hotel’s wellnessinspired take: designed to help guests sleep well and wake refreshed, it’s stocked with CBD- and functional mushroom–infused drinks, alongside health-conscious snacks.

Downstairs, towers of afternoon tea caught my eye. Guests can opt for a traditional spread or try the hotel’s own ‘bhu-tea’ – an entirely plant-based, refined sugar-free, and mostly gluten-free alternative thoughtfully designed to be both sustainable and sumptuous. Resisting temptation, I headed outside for a gentle yoga class in one of three wood-framed domes dotted around the hotel’s pretty garden. Almost entirely transparent, these sleek, serene spaces feel fully immersed in nature and are luxuriously equipped with neatly laid mats, comfy bolsters, and cosy sheepskin rugs.

After class, I made my way to the hotel’s new cocoonlike treatment space for more nurturing, this time in the expert hands of experienced therapist Rebecca Maguire. Much like the hotel itself, she takes a holistic approach, attending to the physical, emotional, and energetic.

Her personalised, highly intuitive and deeply restorative treatments combine sound healing with aromatherapy lymphatic massage, utilising therapeutic-grade essential oils, herbs, and delicious teas hand-blended in-house.

Well and truly relaxed, I floated out onto the idyllic stretch of towpath waiting behind a gate at the bottom of the garden. Turn left, and you’ll pass Petersham Meadows, dotted with grazing cows, and the National Trust’s stunning 17th-century Ham House just beyond. Turn right, and within minutes you’re in the heart of Richmond – a leafy riverside London suburb where cobbled lanes are lined with independent shops, the village green is framed by period houses and cosy pubs, and recent fame comes courtesy of the smash-hit Apple TV+ series, Ted Lasso.

I returned ‘home’ to the Riverhouse to the sound of cocktails being shaken. All the classics are on offer, alongside an extensive wine list and a few twists. Tempted as I was by the mushroom martini made with Sapling’s B Corp-certified vodka, Kahlua, and adaptogenic mushroom coffee, I plumped for a Bingham Colada, crafted with coconut cream, pineapple juice and Everleaf – a nonalcoholic aperitif made from a blend of 14 sustainably

sourced botanicals, including saffron and Madagascan vanilla. It absolutely hit the spot.

At the heart of Bingham’s B Corp ethos is its restaurant. South African-born award-winning executive chef Vanessa Marx is deeply passionate about sustainability, seasonality, and mindful eating. When she’s not busy wild swimming or riding to work on her electric scooter, she can be found devising her creative style of modern ‘feel-good food’, experimenting with low-waste alternatives, and chatting with guests about her choice of delicious ingredients, all of which she carefully sources from handpicked suppliers.

Fresh fish and seafood arrive daily from Brixham Fish Market, while meat, dairy, and eggs come straight from Haye Farm, an organic, regenerative, high-welfare farm in East Devon. Oyster mushrooms are sourced from Wimbledon Rooftop Farm, a nearby urban grower that upcycles used coffee grounds to cultivate fabulous fungi. Premium, traditional-method Greek olive oil comes from Honest Toil, and even the salt is thoughtfully chosen –

produced by Blackthorn in Scotland using 100% pure sea water and a traditional graduation tower, harnessing the power of wind and sea.

Marx’s menus – printed on recycled paper made using elephant poo – are a mouth-watering medley of flavours and textures, offering both nourishment and indulgence in equal measure. Highlights include her signature ‘bierbrood’ – a dense South African bread which Marx makes using organic Gilt & Flint IPA and serves with a moreish whipped organic butter; a light, crispy tempura oyster wrapped in delicate nori, paired perfectly with salty ponzu; and thick fingers of toast generously piped with smooth cashew pâté, its richness satisfyingly balanced by zingy pickles, crispy onion, and spicy sriracha.

A ball of goat’s milk burrata was a creamy, earthy delight, lifted by sweet chunks of Isle of Wight tomato, Riverhouse’s own fig leaf oil, and pink pickled onions. All this plus a huge bowl of bright green, pillowy-soft, fresh gnocchi, bathed in a creamy artichoke and charred leek sauce dotted with colourful herbs and leaves.

Dessert was equally thoughtful and indulgent. A thick slice of rich chocolate and cashew parfait arrived, drizzled with date caramel (refined sugar-free, though you’d never guess) and topped with vibrant pink petals and a generous pinch of salt. Marx proudly tells me the chocolate is from Xoco – the world’s first producer to cultivate its own singlevariety, fully traceable cacao. This is delicious decadence with a conscience.

The following morning, I woke feeling full of beans and pulled back the curtains to reveal the Thames flowing past in all its glory. Ducks and boats glided by as the first dog walkers and cyclists began their daily parade along the towpath. Tempted as I was by the glistening copper tub, I pulled on my robe and went for a soothing session in the hotel’s infrared sauna. Suitably warmed up, I made the dash downstairs into the garden and quickly rinsed off in the outdoor shower before plunging into the steel ice bath, perfectly positioned beneath a vast tree. What a way to start the day! And it was about to get even better…

As you’ve probably guessed by now, breakfast at the Bingham is far from your usual hotel affair. A bountiful buffet, neatly arranged beneath a picture-perfect river-view window, offers bread (four different types), ‘gut-loving’ muffins, and a kaleidoscopic array of fresh juices and smoothies, as well as cheese and charcuterie. A very good eggs royale is served with trout and a delightfully light hollandaise, while my bowl of creamy chia oat porridge –

made with coconut milk, a generous pinch of cinnamon and ginger, and a dash of adaptogenic mushroom powder – was the epitome of comforting.

After breakfast, I watched as other guests pedalled off on the hotel’s bicycles, while some headed for the river with borrowed paddleboards. I wandered back into the garden for one final class – a guided meditation with Sama, seated beneath the gentle sway of a willow, the dappled sunlight and soft rustle of leaves creating a perfect moment of calm.

Back inside, the scene is effortlessly charming: members tapping on laptops sit alongside friends laughing over lunch, while in the corner, a woman with a yoga mat sips her matcha in quiet contemplation. And that’s the beauty of Bingham Riverhouse – by the river, the choice is yours. Meditate, stretch, or lose yourself in a sound bath. Soak in the tub, catch up on sleep, or pen the next chapter of your novel by the fire. You can eat, drink, and dance, fuelled by margaritas or medicinal mushrooms. Or simply sit by the window and watch the river flow by. Here, luxury, sustainability, and wellness coexist in stylish harmony – and it’s this unique combination, delivered with such authenticity and care, that makes this lovely house by the river so special.

 Bedrooms from £160, room only; binghamriverhouse.com

FINDINGnew flavoursin the COTSWOLDS

Hide away from the crowds in Coln St Aldwyns – the beautifully understated gateway to the Cotswolds’ best new pubs and farm shops

Text by Amy Bonifas

If you’ve ever visited the Cotswolds on a sunny Saturday afternoon, you’ll know how packed certain charming high streets can become. But, there are still plenty of hidden villages nestled in the undulating countryside that offer peace, tranquillity and delicious local food.

One such place is the dreamy parish of Coln St Aldwyns – close to the Cotswold ‘golden triangle’ between Burford, Chipping Norton and Stow-on-the-Wold, but far enough to feel like your own slice of rural heaven. Our base for the weekend is Boutique Retreats’ dog-friendly cosy Clover, a classic honey-hued cottage with a rolling front garden, original beams and a wood-burning stove. Thoughtfully decorated with a palette of soothing sage and pistachio greens, there’s also a courtyard garden with plenty of dining space, a second bedroom snug for children, and an Everhot cooker – perfect for living the country cottage dream.

But first, we test out the local pub. The New Inn is an ivy-clad 16th-century coaching inn recently renovated by local food duo Baz & Fred (who also own The Twig cafe in Bibury, serving up exceptional coffee and pastries). It’s just a two-minute walk down the road and is already bursting with punters on this late summer’s evening. While sipping cold

pints of Deya (a local brew made in Cheltenham), we learn the place has been booked by a wedding party, and can’t help but get caught up in the excitement as guests spill out onto the terrace, welcoming us and our dog into the throng.

We tear ourselves away for a dinner reservation at The Swan at Southrop – the stunning Thyme Hotel’s pub outpost. Though it’s humming with locals and hotel guests, the little

candle-lit tables are romantic and intimate, as we sip our drinks – a chilled white Burgundy for him and an Italian bitter soda for me. What follows is a feast that heroes big, bold flavour and local ingredients. The rabbit, ham, and pea pie nestles on a bed of hearty champ mash and thick red wine jus, while the delicate poussin is served French-style with lashings of tarragon, fresh fennel slaw, and crispy frites.

The next day, we’re on the hunt for local produce for a dinner picnic in our cottage garden. To work up our appetite, we stroll the Guiting Wood circular walk, which wends through a protected estate of pretty woodland.

The Cotswold Guy is nearby in Guiting Power and arguably the most underrated farm shop in the area. Owned by former private chef Christopher Davey, a fellow travel

writer tipped me off about his mouth-watering sausage rolls – David Beckham’s favourite, apparently – and we weren’t disappointed. In my opinion, the warm, gooey cheese and leek roll just trumps the meaty version, but it’s wholly necessary to try both. The front of the shop is lined with wild asparagus bunches and punnets of plump, juicy strawberries (in autumn, I imagine a glut of blackberries and gourds), and

you can order fit-to-bursting sandwiches, cakes and those sausage rolls at the counter. We sit on the quiet terrace, tucking into The Cotswold Guy Club sandwiches (creamy chicken, buttery avocado smash and plenty of tangy tomato chutney), watching hikers pass by to the tune of someone practising acoustic guitar in a nearby garden.

Daylesford Farm Shop is our next stop, and while not exactly an under-the-radar destination, I’d heard they’d just released a selection of new cheeses (available from their Cheese Room) and opened an ice cream and sorbet window with delectable flavours like local honey and fig, and rhubarb and geranium – divine. For our garden picnic, we pick up

some buttery Baywell Cheese (made by hand on the farm), a truffle-spiked brie, fresh peaches and Daylesford’s signature sparkling rosé.

On the way back, we zip through Stow-on-the-Wold, where the high street begins to heave, and The Bell pub is filling up with people and dogs after their walks. It’s a relief to get back to the calm of our little village and light the fire pit in the garden. We watch the stars as they slowly appear, savouring the crisp bubbles and last morsels of cheese.

In the morning, I spot my husband striding up the garden path from the bedroom window, armed with steaming Flat Whites and a pack of local smoked streaky bacon from the village store, and I’ve honestly never seen a better sight.

For one final treat on the way home we head to the Farmer’s Puppy, Jeremy Clarkson’s bar and tent shop, (outside The Farmer’s Dog pub), which is a slightly calmer alternative to the queues at Diddly Squat. It’s filling nicely with hungry bank holiday makers as we order sausage brioche buns with mustard (yes, it’s our second breakfast) to go. There’s no ketchup to be had here, as the place only serves 100% British ingredients, but there is local apple juice, thick cuts of beef and bee juice chocolate bites.

As the crowds ramp up further, we smile smugly at having found our own little piece of Cotswold paradise, just up the road in Coln St Aldwyns. Now the challenge is trying not to tell too many people about it…

 Stay at Boutique Retreats’ Clover from £604 for a long weekend or mid-week break. The cottage also welcomes one canine companion; boutique-retreats.co.uk

A ROOM with a view

From castle-crowned horizons to idyllic rolling fields, British Travel Journal reveals ten beautiful bedrooms worth booking for their views alone

Text by Sophie Farrah

1BEST FOR FOREST BATHING

Tucked away in ancient Sussex woodland, Looking Glass Lodge is a luxurious, glassfronted treehouse for two, where floor-toceiling windows blur boundaries with nature, offering total seclusion and wraparound forest views. It earned its name thanks to its full-height, panoramic electrochromic windows – which let you see out, but keep nature from seeing in. Owners Rik and Lindsey have thoughtfully combined contemporary architectural design and cosy comfort with sustainable principles and cutting-edge technology. Sensitively built by local craftsmen beside a majestic giant redwood, the sleek space offers complete immersion in nature. Spot wildlife from the bath or out on the terrace, or watch the leaves dance in the breeze as you snuggle up by the floating log burner. Set between Rye and Hastings, there’s plenty to explore locally – if you can tear yourself away from the green and serene views.

 From £590 for 2 nights; lookingglasslodge.co.uk

2

BEST FOR PICTURE-PERFECT PEAKS

Hidden away in the Northwest Highlands, The Torridon is a remote and luxurious escape where unspoilt Scottish wilderness meets laid-back elegance. This picturesque 58-acre parkland estate brims with character – think roaring log fires; a glistening whisky and gin bar; warm, attentive service; and fairytale-like turrets, all framed by breathtaking scenery. Book the 1887 Master Suite and you’ll wake up to postcard-perfect views of shimmering Loch Torridon framed by the towering, often snow-capped Torridon Hills. These soaring peaks are some of the most dramatic and spectacular in the British Isles and are made of some of the oldest rocks in the world. Looking up at them each day is a truly awe-inspiring experience.

 From £1,500 B&B; thetorridon.com

3

BEST FOR ANCIENT HISTORY

With an enviable position in the heart of Edinburgh, right next to the esteemed National Gallery, 100 Princes Street is a luxurious townhouse hotel with bold, eclectic interiors, slick service, glamorous rooms, and unrivalled views of the city. Book a Castle View room and that’s exactly what you’ll get – uninterrupted vistas of Edinburgh Castle that are so inspiring you may well think you’re still dreaming when you draw back the curtains in the morning. Two signature suites, The Archibald and The Isobel – named after famed Scottish explorers Archibald Menzies and Isobel Wylie Hutchison – offer equally breathtaking views of one of Scotland’s most iconic landmarks.

 From £745 B&B; 100princes-street.com

4 BEST FOR DOLPHIN SPOTTING

For a front-row seat to the sea, check into Carbis Bay Hotel near St Ives in Cornwall. This five-star retreat sits on its very own private Blue Flag beach and features a clutch of ultra-luxe Beach Lodges – originally built to host world leaders during the 2021 G7 Summit. Today, the lodges, which sleep 6, offer barefoot luxury at its best: sleek, light-drenched interiors, freestanding baths, hot tubs, and stunning floor-to-ceiling views across golden sand and turquoise water. The waves alone are mesmerising, but keep your eyes peeled and you’re likely to spot dolphins leaping through the bay and seals bobbing in the shallows.

 From £1,800 per night, including a breakfast hamper delivered to the lodge; carbisbayhotel.co.uk

5

BEST FOR CALMING WATERS

The Lake District doesn’t get much more luxurious than Langdale Chase. Sat in prime position on Windermere’s edge, this recently refurbished grand Victorian house blends period charm with modern comfort in seriously photogenic style. Many of its plush bedrooms offer cinematic lake views, but if you’re looking for real wow factor, book The Boathouse. Built in 1896 and beautifully restored, it’s the hotel’s only bedroom that sits directly above the lake. With its own entrance, private jetty, outdoor terrace and direct beach access, it offers uninterrupted views over Windermere’s mirror-like waters, which can be enjoyed from the kingsized bed, the indoor roll top bath, or from the outdoor copper hot tub. Decisions, decisions…

 From £640 B&B; langdalechase.co.uk

BEST FOR… MOVIE MAGIC

There are few more captivating sights than St Michael’s Mount. Rising dramatically from the sea just off Cornwall’s south coast, this ancient tidal island is steeped in legend and crowned by a fairytaleesque medieval castle. A favourite filming location for fantasy epics, it’s graced both big and small screens with its cinematic allure.

Book Room 1 at boutique B&B Chapel House in Penzance and you can admire this magical island without leaving your king-sized bed, alongside the everchanging scene of boats gliding in and out of Penzance Harbour. The beautiful bedroom blends Georgian elegance with modern comfort, with a soothing colour palette, striking artwork, and a huge rectangular bath – big enough for four –with even more sweeping sea views.

£200 B&B; chapelhousepz.co.uk

7

BEST FOR ROLLING FIELDS

Views don’t come much more beautiful than rolling green fields in all their picturesque, patchwork perfection. At the foothills of the Black Mountains, where the Olchon Brook traces the ancient border between England and Wales, a former cider mill has been reimagined as an irresistibly cosy, deeply luxurious hideaway for two. Nestled within 12 unspoilt acres just half an hour from Hay-on-Wye, Windfall lies in the heart of Herefordshire’s Dark Sky territory and offers sweeping vistas of vibrant green fields and far-reaching countryside. Staggering views of the immense Black Mountains are framed by oak windows throughout, whilst in the generous garden, a wood-fired Hikki bath and fire pit offer yet more jaw-dropping panoramas of patchwork fields and distant peaks.

 From £1,150 for a short break, £1,550 for a week, including a welcome hamper; uniquehomestays.com

8

BEST FOR WILD ENCOUNTERS

Think you need to hop on a plane to sleep beside lions? Think again. Port Lympne Hotel & Reserve in Kent is an extraordinary conservation-led wild animal park, home to endangered species, immersive stays, and safari-style experiences set across hundreds of acres of Kentish savannah. Book one of its two seriously swish Lion Lodges and you might just wake to the unforgettable sight of a lion at the foot of your bed. The first of their kind anywhere in the world, the Lion Lodges are timber-clad, Manhattan loft-style hideaways set within the lions’ spacious habitat. With vast picture windows in both the master bedroom and openplan living area, guests are just a whisker away from these magnificent big cats. Outside, raised private decks are home to Scandinavian-style outdoor baths, which offer more front-row views of the pride

 From £1,450 B&B; aspinallfoundation.org

9

BEST FOR SKYLINE SCENES

Towering high above the city skyline within The Shard, Shangri-La is a five-star hotel that offers sky-scraping luxury and unrivalled views across London. All rooms come with incredible urban vistas, but for the full immersive experience, book the London Suite. Set high on Level 38, this elite onebedroom retreat blends the elegance of the hotel’s Asian heritage with the bold architecture of The Shard. There are mesmerising views through every vast window – even in the marble-clad bathroom – stretching across the Thames and dotted with nearly all of the capital’s most iconic landmarks. A telescope and skyline viewing guide are both provided, along with a bottle of Champagne.

 Superior Shard rooms start at £650 B&B (London Suite from £4,500); shangri-la.com/london/shangrila

10BEST FOR WINE LOVERS

Spread across a sunlit south-facing slope near Shepton Mallet, Wraxall Vineyard – planted in 1974 – is Somerset’s oldest, and produces award-winning still and sparkling wine. Panoramic vine and countryside views stretch from the ancient oak at the top of the estate to the sleek, glassfronted tasting room – aptly named The View – where Wraxall’s delicious wines are poured alongside seasonal small plates. This friendly, family-run vineyard is also home to a handful of cosy, carefully restored cottages and two brand new shepherd’s huts, all of which boast impressive vineyard vistas. For a group getaway, Vine Cottage is the one to book. Sleeping 8-10, this stylish, spacious hideaway is filled with country charm and comfort. Several bedrooms gaze out over Wraxall’s neat rows of leafy vines, dotted with plump grapes. As the sun sets, it feels more like the South of France than Somerset, especially with a glass of Wraxall’s finest in hand…

 From £355 per night, minimum 3 nights (2 nights by request). Includes a welcome hamper; wraxallvineyard.co.uk

It’s HARVEST time

Autumn is one of the best times to explore the British Isles, particularly when it comes to discovering more about the produce that is grown and reared here

Text by Rebecca Pitcairn

A Beaujolais Nouveau-style experience

Sandridge Barton, Stoke Gabriel, Devon

For decades, the third Thursday of November has been a date for French wine lovers to mark on their calendars as the day ‘le Beaujolais Nouveau est arrivé.’ This early bottling, offering a first taste of the year’s Gamay harvest and known as “vin de primeur,” was a way to celebrate the end of the grape-picking season and captured global attention. Here in the UK, during the BSE crisis of the 1980s and 1990s the French refused our cattle. In retaliation, a group of Devon farmers decided not to purchase any Beaujolais Nouveau. Instead, they asked local winemaker, Duncan Schwab, to make a British version. It wasn’t possible at the time to make a red early release wine, due to the UK climate not allowing for the red grapes to ripen, but Duncan agreed to make one with white grapes, and Sandridge Barton’s New Release has been a bestseller ever since. Like Beaujolais Nouveau, the wine – usually a blend of Madeleine Angevine, Bacchus and Pinot Gris – is released annually on the third Thursday of November and is a cornerstone of the winery’s harvest celebrations, complete with a feast to mark the occasion. This year’s End of

Harvest Dinner takes place on 21 November 2025 at the estate’s restaurant, ROAM, housed inside the stone walls of the rustically atmospheric former cow shed, where head chef Sean Blood will deliver a menu focused on ingredients grown, raised and foraged close to home; sandridgebarton.com Where to stay: Beaujolais Nouveau parties are notoriously raucous, but diners don’t have far to stumble with a Farmhouse, sleeping eight, right opposite. A little further out on the estate, down by the River Dart, there’s a romantic 1850s boathouse for two and a larger house that sleeps 12 with an indoor pool and stunning views.  Prices start from £1,000 for a two-night stay in The Boathouse. sandridgebarton.com

Harvesting game experience

Swinton Estate, Ripon, North Yorkshire

Great British Game Week, an annual celebration of all that is great about British game, takes place from 3–9 November 2025, and the 20,000-acre Swinton Estate in North Yorkshire has a week full of events and activities lined up to celebrate.

Game-inspired lunch menus will be served across the estate’s restaurants, showcasing the different game reared on the estate alongside herbs, vegetables and fruits harvested from the four-acre walled garden. You can even learn how to prepare cook and serve a variety of seasonal game, and how to approach individual cuts of meat to get the most from this seasonal produce on a half day course at the Swinton Cookery School (from £120pp) and join talented chef Josh Barnes for an intimate gastronomic tasting experience of estate game such as venison, duck, rabbit and even squirrel, at Chef’s Table (from £75pp).

For something a little simpler, build up an appetite with a walk across the estate to explore Druid’s Temple, before tucking into a venison burger or woodfired game pizza at Bivouac Café; swintonestate.com

Where to stay: Continue celebrating the great outdoors with a stay at Swinton Bivouac but, if you’re concerned the off-grid

‘It’s easy to lose yourself in the 105 acres of gardens that surround Chatsworth House –home to 17 generations of the Devonshire family – but a good place to start, particularly during the fruitful time of harvest, is the orchards of the kitchen gardens...’

yurts and treehouse might be a little close to the elements then book into The Lodge, a self-contained space above a farmhouse at the Bivouac for those who feel that pull of glamping, but just can’t do without the luxuries of a reading light or TV to catch the latest episode of their favourite show.

 From £348 per night for two adults and up to four children.

Seasonal centrepiece experience

Chatsworth, Bakewell, Derbyshire

It’s easy to lose yourself in the 105 acres of gardens that surround Chatsworth House – home to 17 generations of the Devonshire family for almost five centuries – but a good place to start, particularly during the fruitful time of harvest, is the orchards of the kitchen gardens, which are laden with ancient specimens of apples and pears. Join Chatsworth’s professional floristry team for an informative talk and tour of this integral area of the estate gardens before foraging for foliage and picking a pumpkin to

create an autumnal table centrepiece. The experts will demonstrate and guide you in creating your masterpiece so that it showcases the beauty of autumn at Chatsworth. Workshops will be held on 16-17 October 2025, priced at £75 and include garden entry; chatsworth.org

Where to stay: A short five-minute drive from Chatsworth House is The Pilsley Inn. Dating back to the 18th century, the traditional stone inn has a long history of providing hospitality for this close-knit estate community and offers an idyllic rural experience for guests travelling from further afield. Bedrooms are decorated in a pared-back, country style, while the menus are packed full of seasonal, freshly harvested produce, sourced from both the kitchen garden of the inn, as well as the gardens, fields and farms of the Chatsworth Estate. Don’t forget to call at the Chatsworth Farm Shop, a short stroll away and fill up a basket full of seasonal fare to enjoy back at home.

 From £191 per night for a double room with breakfast, chatsworthescapes.co.uk

‘Sibylla and Bruce Tindale founded High Clandon Estate vineyard 20 years ago to produce aged, vintage sparkling wine. However, more recently the couple’s pet cocker spaniels Persephone and Juno, have snuffled out black Perigord truffles on the estate.’

A truffle and bubbles experience High Clandon Estate, East Clandon, Surrey

This small but perfectly formed vineyard estate in the Surrey Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty is famed for its English sparkling wine but it also has another claim to fame.

Sibylla and Bruce Tindale founded High Clandon Estate vineyard 20 years ago to produce aged, vintage sparkling wine. However, more recently the couple’s pet cocker spaniels Persephone and Juno, have snuffled out black Perigord truffles on the estate – the first find in the south of England and thought to be the second such in England as a whole (the first was at Sandringham Estate in 2018).

Their Truffles & Bubbles experience is hosted in conjunction with professional truffle hunter, James Feaver of the English Truffle Company, who delivers a talk on the history of these rare ‘black diamonds’ of underground fungi

and a tour of High Clandon’s secret truffle orchard to hunt out and harvest some gems with the hounds. It’s then back to the estate’s glass barn for a truffle-themed two-course lunch, tasting of High Clandon cuvées and a lesson in the art of sabrage (opening a bottle of fizz with a sword).

Experiences are due to take place on 1 and 22 November 2025 and cost £200 per person; highclandon.co.uk

Where to stay: The decadence of sparkling wine and truffles will set you up nicely for a stay at the former home of Lord Beaverbrook, just 20 minutes away on the outskirts of Dorking. Famed for its 19th-century architecture, plush interiors, spa and 470 acres of woodland, there’s a variety of room options from the main house, where Beaverbrook entertained high-profile guests such as Ian Fleming and Winston Churchill, to the newest rooms in The Village. However, the most appropriate harvest is The Garden House with its adjacent kitchen garden.

 From £610 per night for two people with breakfast; beaverbrook.co.uk

A truly sustainable field-to-fork experience Chapters, Haye on Wye, Wales

When it comes to sustainable dining, Chapters, in Britain’s literary mecca of Hay on Wye, has been getting it right for some time thanks to the conscious culinary approach from husband-and-wife team Charmaine and Mark McHugo.

First awarded the Michelin Green Star for Sustainable Gastronomy in 2022, which it has maintained since, the restaurant’s zero-waste focus runs through all its decision-making from product sourcing to menu planning. Establishing a harmonious connection between field and fork, Mark – previously of Six Senses in Oman –heads up the kitchen, while Charmaine is front of house and responsible for maintaining the half-acre no-dig, chemical-free garden, where produce is grown and harvested to directly fuel the restaurant’s fun and foragedfocused menu. There’s a formal harvest-led menu served in the evening at £65pp with dishes such as Pickled

Vegetable and Garden Herb Salad and Middle White

Pork Loin and Sausage with Braised Garden Leeks, New Potatoes, Burnt Apple and Cider Velouté. A relaxed lunch menu of sharing plate-style dishes is served on Saturdays, alongside locally produced wine – yes, Wales produces wine – beers, ciders and spirits; chaptershayonwye.co.uk

Where to stay: Sticking with sustainability in mind, By the Wye’s treetop glamping provides off-grid, eco-friendly accommodation with home comforts including sumptuous sofas, running water, flushing toilets and fully equipped kitchens powered by solar energy. Add roaring campfires and riverside views to the mix, and you’ve got the best of both worlds.

 From £370 for a two-night stay, bythewye.uk

A foraging and fermentation experience

Black Chalk, Andover, Hampshire

Rachel de Thample has been extolling the virtues of foraging and fermentation throughout her 20-plus years in food. Fellow enthusiasts can join her at Black Chalk in Hampshire for a Totally Wild UK masterclass in the art. Foraging is not only free and the perfect way to connect with nature; gathering wild ingredients also provides some of the best kick-starters for vivacious ferments, as their deeper perennial roots can access a richer source of bacteria to get your kimchis, krauts and kombuchas bubbling with gut-friendly goodness. Touching on the basics, while also delving a little deeper with adventurous

recipes, the experience involves heading out into Black Chalk’s vineyard estate and the wider Test Valley to learn what to forage in each season, before Rachel – author of the River Cottage Fermentation Handbook – shows you how to transform your wild things into delicious guthealth ferments.

The next masterclass takes place on 13 September 2025 and costs £110; totallywilduk.co.uk

Where to stay: Designed and built by Wild Escapes using local materials and cutting-edge techniques to minimise their impact on the surrounding landscape while also maximising the views, the four treehouses on the edge of Black Chalk vineyard are a bit of guilt-free fun. With King-size beds, a wood burner and a complimentary bottle of Black Chalk Classic in the fridge, which you can sip while soaking in the outdoor zinc bathtub, there’s no compromise on luxury.

 From £272.50 per night for two people (two-night minimum), wildescapes.com

E-bike harvest tour experience

White Heron Estate, Kington, Herefordshire

The family-owned Whittern – old Herefordshire dialect for White Heron – Estate, in North Herefordshire, is home to 700 acres of arable, woodland and pasture. Here they grow all manner of crops the county is famous for including, apples and blackcurrants and – more recently, grapes. Accompanied by a knowledgeable guide, jump on an e-bike and ride through the vineyards, orchards growing apples for cider houses like Aspall and Bulmers and blackcurrant fields (the farm is one of the biggest suppliers for Ribena), stopping en route to hear about the history and heritage of the farm. You will see crops in situ – or even being harvested – and the biodiversity and environmental schemes that have been introduced on the estate before sampling their award-winning British Cassis liqueur, Framboise, sparkling wine, apple juice and cider. Tours take place throughout October 2025, last two hours

‘Accompanied by a knowledgeable guide, jump on an e-bike and ride through the vineyards, orchards growing apples for cider houses... stopping en route...’

and cost £75 per person including a gourmet harvest picnic served on a rustic oak table, overlooking the vines; whiteheronestate.com

Where to stay: White Heron has a collection of six self-catered accommodation including farm cottages, a Queen Ann house and a luxury converted Victorian stable block, making it possible to combine the tours with a stay on the farm. Each of the cottages has a hot tub or access to an outdoor pool.

 From £509 for a three-night stay in the two-bedroom Field Cottage; whiteheronestate.com

A grape harvest escape

Rathfinny Wine Estate, Alfriston, East Sussex

A glass of wine tastes different – better even – when you understand more about where it has come from and the process by which it ended up in that glass, such as dosage trials. Dosage is the small amount of sugar added to a traditional method sparkling wine – like Champagne or English sparkling wine – after disgorgement (the process of removing the

dead yeast cells, or lees) before the cork is inserted. It helps round off the finished sparkling wine in the bottle to a particular level of sweetness. From the end of September to the beginning of November Ratfinny Wine Estate invites visitors to escape to the vineyard during harvest for an overnight stay with breakfast, three-course dinner in The Flint Barns, and the chance to step into the shoes of a winemaker and conduct a dosage trial, by adding different levels of sugar to a base wine to see how it affects the final style of the wine. Prices from £295.50 based on two guests sharing a super cosy double room; rathfinnyestate.com

Where to stay: Rathfinny has limited accommodation, so if you can’t take advantage of the harvest experience package, you can always book the 90-minute Dosage Tour and Tasting (£35pp) separately and then book into a hotel in Alfriston village, such as:

 The Alfriston, from £150 B&B; thealfriston.com or The Star, from £260 B&B; thepolizzicollection.com/ the-star.

NATURAL wonders

British Travel Journal heads to the glorious banks of the River Dart to the well-established Devonshire vineyard that’s now taking the natural wine world by storm and gets to the root of its success

Text by Emma Henderson

Before you taste it, first start by holding the wine up to the light – the colour is an indicator of how you form the taste and you can see it’s hazy,” Debbie McGregor explains, one of the team at Sandridge Barton vineyard in south Devon, set on the banks of the River Dart, just a few miles south of the market town, Totnes. I’ve got a chilled glass of lemony-coloured unfiltered wine, named Figgie Daniel, and taking in its aroma, there’s notes of gooseberry and pear, and I can’t wait to take a sip.

I’m visiting the vineyard in early May, and very unusually, it feels like British summer time has come early. White cottonlike fluffy clouds are quickly passing through the otherwise powdery blue skies, and the suncream has already made an

appearance as the temperature is creeping into the early 20s. The vineyard is set in a valley and has taken over an old dairy farm, and there’s a buzzy feeling that comes with unexpected sunshine married with such a pretty setting (and good wine and food, of course), full of relaxed people embracing the weather in shorts and summery dresses, happily raising a glass to the sky, both metaphorically and physically. We’re starting our guided tasting tour sitting on a

wooden picnic bench on a bankside overlooking the shop, bar, restaurant and courtyard. Below us is a little babbling stream separating us from the buildings in front, and behind us are a few of the vineyards – it’s an idyllic setting for tasting English wines.

What started off at Sharpham Vineyard, just the other side of the River Dart, more than 40 years ago has now hopped over to this side of the water and bloomed to become Sandridge Barton, with more vines, grape varieties, plus a brand new winery and restaurant. Though it still makes the original Sharpham wines here, and serves its famous cheese, which comes from Sharpham Dairy.

“We spent almost 40 years looking across to the other side of the River Dart, thinking they’ve got more sunshine than we have,” says Duncan Schwab, head wine maker at Sandridge Barton who has been with the company since the Eighties and explains the move. “We wanted to carry on the philosophy of making wines on the banks of the River Dart,” he adds.

My wine tasting at Sandridge Barton has kicked off with a glass of that delicious hazy wine, Figgie Daniel, from the

brand’s natural wine arm, ‘Don’t Feed The Ponies’. Its rather abstract name is part of a campaign to encourage people not to feed the semi-wild ponies on nearby Dartmoor, which was inspired by Duncan’s daughter. Feeding them can encourage the ponies to stay near the roads running through the moor which can be very dangerous. There’s about 1,500 shaggy and stocky-looking ponies on the moor, and their grazing plays an important role in conserving and maintaining the moor as a natural habitat. Each bottle in this range is named after one of the moor’s Tors (a large rocky formation) and donates 25p to the charity, Dartmoor Preservation Association.

Figgie Daniel is a col fondo, which means “with the bottom” in Italian, meaning the ‘lees’ (the yeast after fermentation) is left in the bottle after the wine is fermented in the bottle, forming a little sediment at the bottom. Col fondo is essentially the process of an original style prosecco, before it became over-commercialised, and it was clarified by going through the second fermentation in metal tanks. Instead, this method retains its glorious haziness and also has a delicious light fizz that’s much gentler than a champagne

or prosecco. It’s described as a sparkling wine alternative with a more effervescent fizz, like an Italian frizzante. It’s very citrus fruit heavy but is mellow and balanced, and feels almost dangerously easy to sip in the sunshine. “As it’s been fermented in the bottle, it rounds off all those flavours and it’s a bit more complex,” says Debbie.

What makes the Sandridge Barton site so special and good for vines lies far below the soil we’re trudging on too. “The site ticks many of the right boxes for vineyards,” explains Debbie. As well as being south facing, sheltered and close to the river which prevents frost, the key is its really high-grade limestone, that’s essentially fossilised coral from millions of years ago.

Sandridge Barton’s site was set up in 2019, and with the help of an EU grant, then of course the pandemic came. Though Debbie says this meant “it worked to their advantage, because it meant they could really concentrate on getting the winery up and running,” which they had done by October 2020, just in time for harvest.

After moving to the new winery at Sandridge Barton, Duncan says they decided to only use natural yeast, and not cultured yeasts that comes from a packet, which if used, dominates the winery. He thinks using just natural yeast makes the wines more complex, fruity and generally better, which the entire offering of wines benefits from, not just the low intervention range.

“Our whole ethos is about producing wines on the River Dart, from grapes grown on the River Dart, which taste of the region,” he says.

All of the low intervention wines are unfiltered, unfined

(fining is clarifying the wine), they’re vegan and vegetarian, virtually no sulphur – though some have natural sulphur, They’re designed for people “who are a bit bored” of run of the mill wines, says Duncan, and want something that feels and tastes more “alive”, which is exactly what Duncan says they’re trying to create.

Back on the tour, we head over to the winery where we see bottling, riddling (bottles are periodically moved in a large machine to push sediment to the neck), disgorging (removing the sediment) and many other impressive mechanical elements of the process. In the winery, we also taste the estate white that’s made from the vineyard’s Madeleine angevine grapes (they grow well in cool climates and are popular in the Loire Valley and Germany), which is a more floral white with a little salinity.

We head back to the bench in the sun to taste the final wine, the single vineyard pinot noir which can also be a good one to chill for summer too, as it’s so light. It’s also paired with some of Sharpham’s famous cheese too, a tangy brie-like cheese which makes me realise lunch time has rolled around.

We only have to saunter over to the other side of the courtyard to the newly opened farm to fork restaurant, Roam, which focuses on local Devonshire produce, with meat sourced from the estate and vegetables from the kitchen garden and other local farms that follow no-dig and regenerative practices.

We order the marinated courgette salad that’s drenched in verjus dressing, giving it a little sourness, and it’s topped with creamy burrata – a fresh dish perfect for the sunshine, while the saffron, lemon and parmesan pasta is wonderfully creamy,

indulgent and so good I could have eaten another bowl. Plus charcuterie and more Sharpham cheese, with a couple of slabs of chunky bread and smoked salted butter.

Though I’m not staying this time, there’s plenty of accommodation with the newest option being the pale pink Lower Well Farmhouse, a beautifully converted building right by the main hub of the vineyard, which sleeps eight. There’s also the rather regal six-bed Georgian Sandridge Barton House with an indoor pool, and the whimsical romantic 1850s boathouse that’s right on the water and is reached via walking through the woods or by a short Land Rover ride.

I finish the day by walking off lunch through trails around the vineyards. When we reach the highest of them in the valley, all I see surrounding us is rolling lush greenery.

It would be sacrilegious to leave without at least having a look in the shop, especially as I’m now hooked on Figgie Daniel. I almost fill a case of it, while the last spot is saved for a delicious single-vineyard pinot noir that’s going to be served chilled in my garden at home – both bottles, though very different, feel such an appropriate English tipple to toast a very British summer. And who wouldn’t want to raise a glass to that?

 Book a short stay at Sandridge Barton House from £2,450. Also on the estate, a 1850s style cosy two-bedroom Boathouse from £1,000, and for large groups, their newly renovated Farmhouse at Lower Well Farm is priced from £1200 per night. Sandridge Barton has three tours ranging from £15pp-£45pp. Self-accommodation options have a three or 4-night minimum stay, and the restaurant is open seven days a week.

Four other natural wine English vineyards to visit

1. Oxney Organic Estate, East Sussex

The UK’s largest single estate organic vineyard, which was certified by the Soil Association back in 2009, Oxney in East Sussex defied the idea that English vineyards can’t be organic as they’re too wet. It specialises in producing organic traditional method sparkling wine, both white and rosé, that showcases its excellent quality grapes. Go for a tour and stay over in one of the shepherd’s huts.

 oxneyestate.com

2. Trevibban Mill, North Cornwall

On the north Cornish coast, near Padstow, Trevibban Mill is surrounded by farmland, native English Southdown sheep, vines, and orchard trees. In addition to making low-intervention and traditional wines, it also produces ciders, all of which are made on site. Look out for Orion, the skin contact wine or the Pet-Nat. The South African-inspired tasting lodge, complete with a large wraparound terrace, overlooks the vineyard too, and it offers vineyard tours and tasting flights of both wine and cider.

 trevibbanmill.com

3. Westwell, Kent

Near Ashford in Kent, this vineyard, which sits on the south-facing slopes of the North Downs, is familyrun and is all about the experimental approach to its winemaking. Following organic methods and promoting biodiversity, it produces everything from traditional method sparklers to col fondos, red, white and rosé, it is’ the Pet-Nat and the Ortega skin contact wines that standout and are a must to try on its tours.

 westwellwines.com

4.

Tillingham, East Sussex

After opening to the public with its rooms, restaurant, pizza shed and tasting space, Tillingham, just outside of Rye, has made a name for itself for its exciting pet nats, skin contacts and its sparkling wines, all of which follow a biodynamic approach. They’re also instantly recognisable for their cool and understated labels. Rooms are in the old oast building and the restaurant, which overlooks the vines, is worthy of a trip alone.

 tillingham.com

GREAT BRITISHlandmarks

In the 60 years since The Landmark Trust rescued its first property, it has restored and transformed hundreds of Britain’s most fascinating historic buildings into holiday homes. British Travel Journal uncovers some of its most unique stays

Text by Rebecca Pitcairn

1BEST FOR AN ISLAND BREAK

The Old School, Lundy

The unspoilt island of Lundy – a 400-foot granite outcrop in the Bristol Channel accessed via helicopter in winter and ferry in summer – offers wide spaces, big skies and no roads, cars or pollution. A stay on the island is a true escape from life as we know it. Affectionately known as the ‘Blue Bung’, the island’s former Sunday school is a charming, blue-coloured building built in 1886 by The Rev. Hudson Heaven. Built of timber and corrugated iron, it’s a snug little hideaway with commanding views of the sea and mainland. While you’re there: Lundy has a milder climate than the mainland, with more sunshine and less rain, which attracts a variety of rare and spectacular wildlife above and below the waves. Spotting a seal will likely be a regular occurrence during any stay here, but you can also swim with the seals on day trips run by Lundy Diving (lundydiving.co.uk).

What to pack: Snorkels for spotting underwater wildlife

 From £46.50 per person per night

2BEST FOR A ROMANTIC GETAWAY

Clytha Castle, Monmouthshire

Romantic gestures are usually best served when the recipient is alive, but for William Jones, the tragic death of his wife in 1787 meant that this grand expression of love was made in memoriam. Overlooking the Usk Valley just outside Abergavenny, Clytha Castle was commissioned by William Jones following the death of his wife, Elizabeth, as a way of ‘relieving a mind afflicted by the loss of a most excellent wife’.

The castellated gothic retreat stands on the summit of a small hill at the edge of a grove of old chestnut trees with little to no mobile signal, so it’s a real off-grid escape from modern life and the perfect place to reconnect with a loved one – or loved ones; there are six bedrooms so that romantic getaway might just have to be shared with friends or family.

While you’re there: This is real walking country, so dive right into those magnificent views with a hike along the Usk Trail, reachable right from the doorstep, while the majestic peaks of the Black Mountains and Brecon Beacons are a short drive away. Abergavenny’s foodie favourite, The Walnut Tree Inn (thewalnuttreeinn.com), is well worth a pit stop.

What to pack: Hiking boots to navigate the hilly terrain.

 From £38.17 per person per night

3BEST FOR FERROEQUINOLOGISTS

The Station Agent’s House, Manchester

This year, as we celebrate the Railway200 anniversary, what better way to immerse yourself in railway history than staying in the home of the agent who managed the world’s first purpose-built, inter-city passenger railway terminus. In 1830, at the dawn of the Railway Age, Liverpool Road Station opened in the heart of Manchester. Joseph Green was appointed as its first Station Agent, and his house was the hub around which the station was developed. More recently used as offices, the Grade I Listed property has been remodelled and furnished to evoke the spirit of the 1930s and the golden age of steam. Late Arts and Crafts oak furniture is enhanced by the bold use of colour in both curtains and walls, with railway memorabilia dotted throughout the house. Top tip: Shotgun one of the bedrooms on the top floor, the bathroom on this level has a free-standing bath with views of Stephenson’s viaduct and the bridges beyond. While you’re there: Visit the Science and Industry Museum (scienceandindustrymuseum.org.uk), down the road on the site of the old station, which closed in 1975.

What to pack: A cloche hat or homburg to really get into the Art Deco spirit of the property.

 From £24.38 per person per night

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BEST FOR A ROMANESQUE HOLIDAY

The Ruin, North Yorkshire

Dramatically perched above a steep wooded gorge, in the remnants of an outstanding 18th-century garden at Hackfall, The Ruin is spectacularly designed inside and out. Janus-faced (meaning it has two faces), the Georgian folly is smoothly Gothic on its public elevation, but far more rugged on its rear elevation with a Romanesque, triple-domed ‘ruin’ redolent of ancient Rome and Piranesi. Inside, there are just three rooms – a bedroom, a sitting room and a bathroom – none of which connect or communicate with each other, but each offers the same, picture-perfect view across miles of Yorkshire countryside.

While you’re there: Visit the 2025 Chelsea Flower Show Gold-winning gardens at Newby Hall (newbyhall.com) around a 10-minute drive away. The house is impressive too – it’s often

cited as being the inspiration for Downton Abbey thanks to several similarities, including someone named Lord Grantham living there in the 1800s.

What to pack: Slippers so your feet don’t get cold navigating the stone terrace between The Ruin’s rooms at night.

 From £52 per person per night

5

BEST FOR A ROOM WITH A VIEW…

Culloden Tower, North Yorkshire

There are rooms with a view and then there are rooms with a view. From the bright octagonal bedroom on the top of the four-storey Culloden Tower, the panoramic vistas across parts of the Yorkshire Dales National Park are an astonishing scene to wake up to. But it gets even better, because, after you’ve made yourself a cup of morning coffee, you can climb up to the roof, settle into one of the striped deckchairs and watch the nearby market town of Richmond rise from slumber. Inside the tower – built by John Yorke as a monument to the victory of the Duke of Cumberland’s army over Bonnie Prince Charlie near Inverness in April 1746 – a rich mix of Gothic and Classical carving and plasterwork with a modern, calming colour palate frame the views from the living room and bedroom while the mezzanine kitchen has a country feel for slow breakfasts and long, sociable lunches. While you’re there. With its situation on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales, its proximity to the beautiful market town of Richmond and the River Swale within sight, it is difficult to find a more breathtaking or convenient location in the Dales. Visit the town’s 18th-century theatre and don’t miss the chance to slurp a pint in the highest pub in England – The Tan Hill Inn (tanhillinn.com). What to pack: Binoculars to make the most of those views.

 From £44.50 per person per night

6BEST FOR GARDEN LOVERS

Goddards, Surrey

What do you get when two of the most influential British designers of the Arts & Crafts movement collide? Goddards – a house built at the turn of the 20th century as a ‘Home of Rest to which ladies of small means might repair for holiday’.

Designed by architect Edwin Lutyens, the eight-bedroom property, which stands on a little green approached by deeply sunken lanes in the charming Surrey village of Abinger Hammer, has a spectacular garden designed by celebrated horticulturalist Gertrude Jekyll, whose influence and enthusiasm for the vernacular architecture can be strongly felt throughout. While considered one of the most seriously important houses built in the Arts & Crafts style, there’s plenty of good old-fashioned fun to be had at the property, with croquet on the lawn and an old-fashioned indoor bowling alley with wooden skittles.

While you’re there: Enjoy more outdoor fun at The Abinger Hatch (theabingerhatch.co.uk) in Sutton Abinger, a traditional independent pub where you can enjoy a game or two of pétanque alongside traditional and hearty pub grub. If you’re feeling fit, head up Leith Hill and enjoy views of the Surrey Hills from atop the tower.

What to pack: A camera to capture candid shots of the family in the picturesque gardens.

 From £48.50 per person per night

7BEST FOR A UNIQUE HIDEAWAY

Martello Tower, Suffolk

Nearly a million bricks were used in the construction of this Martello Tower at the foot of the Orford Ness peninsula in Aldeburgh – the largest and most northerly of a chain of 103 towers built to keep Napoleon off England’s shores. Sitting right on the beach between the River Alde and the ocean, this large, lofty escape has an intriguing echo in the vaulted main living space, where you can hide away from the elements beside the wood burner.

Up on the rooftop, the stone-flagged battery with mountings of guns and a high, thick parapet for shelter, is the perfect spot to eat a fish and chip supper as the waves crash about below. You will need to be a little familiar with the guests you choose to stay with; however, the bedrooms, while screened from the central living area, are not fully divided.

While you’re there: Take a short walk along the beach to Aldeburgh, buy a pot of fresh whelks or shrimp from one of the fishermen’s huts along the way and pick a spot near the iconic giant Scallop sculpture, a tribute to the composer Benjamin Britten, who spent much of his life in this area, that rises from the shingle.

What to pack: A bathing suit for an invigorating morning swim.

 From £51.50 per person per night

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BEST FOR AN ISOLATED ESCAPE

Whiteford Temple, Tamar

It’s somewhat hard to believe that this temple, which was gifted to the Landmark Trust by The Duchy of Cornwall, was once used as a cattle shed with a corrugated roof and earth floor. Whiteford Temple was built in 1799 for Sir John Call, a military engineer who had made a fortune in India, to adorn the landscape of his mansion near Callington in the east of Cornwall. However, when the mansion was largely demolished in 1913, the remains were used for agricultural purposes. Now resurrected to its former glory, the temple, which sits above the Tamar estuary and offers incredible views across the surrounding countryside, is flooded with light during the day thanks to three glazed arches. By night, the property, with its open fire and distinct remoteness, transforms into a cosy retreat for two.

While you’re there: Climb Kit Hill, the highest point in the Tamar Valley, for even better views over southeast Cornwall and pop across the border into Devon for an afternoon exploring the National Trust’s Buckland Abbey, once home to seafarers Sir Richard Grenville and Sir Francis Drake.

What to pack: Cosy layers for watching the sun go down from the temple lawn.

 From £30 per person per night

9BEST FOR A STATELY STAY

Auchinleck House, Ayrshire

If your idea of a great holiday is getting dressed for dinner and retiring to the library to watch the sunset over a digestive, Auchinleck House, with its extensive 500 acres of grounds, gives off real Bridgerton vibes. According to biographer James Boswell’s Book of Company and Liquors, the grand neo-classical Georgian villa was host to much ‘social glee’ after he inherited the property from his father, Lord Auchinleck. You can only imagine the stories the walls of the elaborately plastered dining room might tell if they could talk; similarly, in the library, where Boswell and mentor Dr. Samuel Johnson would argue with Lord Auchinleck over politics. Head out into the gardens to promenade or go on a hunt around the estate to find the mystical grotto, ice cave and the cascading waterfall on the picturesque banks of the River Arran.

While you’re there: Meander the nearby village of Ochiltree – one of the oldest in East Ayrshire – and its charming thoroughfare of single-storey cottages. Long considered one of Britain’s most significant architectural jewels and part of The King’s Foundation, Dumfries House (dumfries-house.org.uk)

sits just five miles away from Auchinleck, where you can marvel at its unrivalled collection of Chippendale furniture.

What to pack: A cocktail dress for dinner.

 From £19.69 per person, per night

10

BEST FOR A SEASIDE TOWN BREAK

The Mayor’s Parlour, Dover

When Dover’s Maison Dieu began life as a monastery around 1200, it offered ‘hospitality for all strangers’, chiefly pilgrims travelling to Canterbury Cathedral to visit the shrine of Thomas Becket. For the past 160 or so years, it has had a more civic use as Dover’s Town Hall, and just this year, the Mayor’s Parlour was unveiled as The Landmark Trust’s latest project, with space for six guests to experience living in spaces conceived as privy rooms by architect and designer William Burges in the late 1800s. Eat dinner around the original council table and chairs in the main parlour, after it has been prepared in the Magistrates’ Retiring Room behind, now a kitchen with its walls sprinkled with daisies. A private staircase, with views across an internal Gothic court, leads to three bedrooms, while the bathrooms were formerly Minute Rooms, where clerks once kept the town’s records

While you’re there: Head inland to Canterbury Cathedral, as the pilgrims who took refuge at Maison Dieu would have all those centuries ago. Or keep it hyper local and check out Dover’s striking Samphire Hoe Nature Reserve with its walks and views across the English Channel.

What to pack: A picnic blanket for picky-bit lunches by the White Cliffs.

 From £19.88 per person per night.

Coastal CRAVINGS

Long admired for its staggering natural beauty, Cornwall is now just as celebrated for its thriving food scene. British Travel Journal heads to the north coast for a taste of what’s on offer, and discovers a region that’s redefining coastal cuisine

Text by Sophie Farrah

Cornwall’s dramatic landscapes have long captivated the soul, and now – whether you prefer Michelinstarred finesse or impeccably sourced simplicity – its kitchens are equally captivating the palate. With dramatic cliffs, golden beaches, and picturesque harbour towns, the county’s north coast is home to a remarkable concentration of talented chefs, bakers, cocktail makers, and more, each offering something distinctly worth sitting down for, as I discovered…

My first port of call was Port Isaac, the postcard-perfect fishing village where revered seafood chef Nathan Outlaw has two critically acclaimed restaurants and a lovely guest house overlooking the sea. At the latter, I was greeted warmly by Stephanie and Rachel (Nathan’s wife), who immediately plied me with an array of homemade treats, including a thirstquenching cocktail made with herb-infused vodka, elderflower

‘Quality and sustainability are a (genuine) priority here, with dishes shaped exclusively by that day’s catch. A creative and well-designed set menu is served amongst characterful low ceilings and wonky windows which frame the harbour views perfectly’

cordial, fresh lime and local apple juice, and a heaven-sent ‘jammy dodger’, made by Nathan and Rachel’s daughter, Jessica – an incredibly talented pastry chef.

After a crisp glass of Camel Valley’s excellent Cornish fizz, I strolled through the village down to the picturesque harbour. Here, in prime position, sits Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen – a picture-perfect 15th century fishermen’s cottage that the chef has transformed into his relaxed (but one-Michelinstar) seafood restaurant.

Quality and sustainability are a (genuine) priority here, with dishes shaped exclusively by that day’s catch. A creative and well-designed set menu is served amongst characterful low ceilings and wonky windows which frame the harbour views perfectly. Carefully crafted small plates arrived first – soft, meaty mackerel swimming in salty soy, ginger and sesame; perfectly crisp cuttlefish and red pepper fritters; and a sensational Port Isaac lobster dumpling, plump and

succulent, sat in a broth delicately laced with chilli and orange. Mains depend entirely on what’s been landed that day; I opted for the sweet and juicy local lobster, cooked simply with garlic and herbs, and served with local potatoes and fat spears of grassy asparagus. It was perfect, as was the zesty organic Valencian white – a brilliant suggestion from Emma, the restaurant’s friendly manager. After a thick, silky-smooth mango cream bursting with tropical flavour, I emerged out on to the star-lit harbour and made the short, sleepy stroll to bed.

Breakfast at Outlaw’s Guest House is another gastronomic affair. There’s a concise buffet and elevated cooked options (think smoked local trout with herby scrambled eggs, and porridge with Cornish clotted cream and compote) but the star of the show was another of Jessica’s carb-filled creations – this time a perfectly squidgy, softly spiced cinnamon bun.

I spent the day pounding the coast path and made it back to Port Isaac just in time for a pint at The Golden Lion as the local choir began their shanties (the world-famous Fisherman’s Friends hail from the village). My dinner that evening was at Outlaw’s New Road – the chef’s refined yet relaxed dining experience, where more Michelin-starred skill meets sweeping sea views.

The 7–10 course tasting menu is a testament to Outlaw’s mastery of British seafood – a precise, elegantly paced journey that balances bold coastal flavours with understated

finesse. Nothing quite rivals the buttery freshness of raw scallop, bass, and brill, lightly cured in white wine, and then topped with fresh sweet peas and mint. A chunky lobster fritter with rich lobster sauce – lifted by a crisp squid ink crumb, fragrant basil oil and a hint of zesty orange – almost brought a tear to my eye.

As I finished with some soft-yet-chewy apple and cinnamon amaretti, two dolphins danced through the waves just beyond the window, as if timed to the final bite. Was I dreaming? Quite possibly…

The following morning, armed with another cinnamon roll to-go, I made a beeline for Harlyn Bay – a wide and sheltered beach just west of Padstow. Nestled behind its golden sands sits THE PIG – a laid-back yet luxurious hotel well-known for its epicurean delights. Its Lobster Shack delivers exactly what its name promises – and does so deliciously. Inside, within a cosy, rustic, candlelit restaurant, head chef Tom Holloway skilfully delivers a hearty ‘25mile menu’ using plot-to-plate produce harvested from

the hotel’s kitchen garden alongside other strictly local ingredients. Moreish ‘Piggy bits’ such as chorizo and gouda fritters, crispy kale, and smoked pollock roe dip are all enticingly presented on vintage crockery scattered with petals. A juicy, perfectly charred monkfish tail accompanied by a rainbow chard, fennel and lobster sauce arrived next –rich and salty but perfectly balanced with herby freshness. Pudding was a huge Baked Alaska for two (I did share, I promise) – a glorious, decadent muddle of marshmallow-y meringue, thick vanilla ice cream, and a boozy blackberry purée. I rolled into bed like a pig in the proverbial.

After a morning walk along the beach followed by THE PIG’s famously abundant breakfast, I set my greedy sights on Rock, which sits on the shores of the Camel Estuary almost directly opposite Padstow (the two are connected by a speedy ferry).

Paul Ainsworth is another of North Cornwall’s heavyweight chefs; he has several restaurants on both sides of the estuary and has recently acquired Rock’s only hotel – The St Enodoc. I popped into his lively gastropub, The Mariners, for a quick G&T before heading down the beach to Four Boys for dinner. Overlooking the estuary, this relaxed and

‘...don’t leave Cornwall without sampling one of Sabzi’s legendary cinnamon and tahini buns – a perfect blend of spice, sweetness, and sticky indulgence’

understated spot serves up delicious small plates — think monkfish crudo with tangy green tomato dressing, megrim sole bathed in brown butter and capers, and a rich and comforting fish soup. Fresh, handmade pasta is another speciality; I had a huge bowl of beautiful, buttery farfalle, laden with Cornish crab, chili, garlic and lemon.

The following day, Padstow beckoned. With the mouth-watering aroma of freshly baked pasties filling the air, this picturesque fishing port is truly a foodie paradise.

I popped into Sabzi, a modern Middle Eastern deli founded by Masterchef quarterfinalist Kate Attlee. Now dotted across the county, Kate’s stylish emerald-green delis offer an array of vibrant flavours inspired by her IranianBritish heritage, via a menu of bountiful breakfasts, crunchy salads and hearty dahls that change every day.

I relished every zingy, herb-laced mouthful of my kaleidoscopic plate, piled high with rosemary-roasted local potatoes with Caesar dressing, Parmesan and sweet pink pickles, and crunchy green vegetables covered in a whipped green tahini dressing and citrussy sumac.

Whatever you do, don’t leave Cornwall without sampling one of Sabzi’s legendary cinnamon and tahini buns – a perfect blend of spice, sweetness, and sticky indulgence.

Craving a cocktail, I headed for CiCi’s – Ainsworth’s chic and intimate cocktail bar which sits in a handsome Georgian townhouse on the floor above his Michelinstarred restaurant, No6. Seated by the window overlooking one of Padstow’s winding streets, I watched as talented bar manager, Tyler, crafted an array of exceptional cocktails. A highlight was ‘Who Dares Wins’, a refreshing and theatrically frothy mixture of gin, buttermilk, yuzu, soda

water and more. It was the perfect pairing for the bar’s selection of sophisticated pintxos; cave-aged Manchego drizzled in chestnut honey with herb-laced crackers; buttery slices of acorn-fed Jamon Iberico; and a heavenly cheese scone served with rich, gorse-yellow butter, made in-house. The warm and caramelly brown butter financiers with Pedro Ximenez sherry jelly, whimsically presented on a merry-goround, were an unforgettable finale.

Of course, this bustling harbour town is also known as ‘Padstein’ – a nod to celebrity chef Rick Stein who famously founded his foodie empire here half a century ago. Today, the Stein family own several local restaurants, a café, shops and more, but the story first began back in 1974 when Rick and his first wife, Jill, opened a night club in the heart of town. Their initial venture was short-lived, thanks in part to the challenge of managing a boisterous crowd of burly fishermen. Undeterred, in 1975 they reinvented the space as a seafood bistro and the rest, as they say, is history.

Today it’s known simply as The Seafood Restaurant –although everything about it feels quietly special. A sense of deep contentment settled over me as I passed the sculpture of Rick’s beloved late Jack Russell, Chalky, and entered beneath

‘...This glittering restaurant exudes understated elegance, perfectly paired with a warm, buzzing atmosphere that’s impossible to resist, and a joy to be part of.’

a chandelier of swirling porcelain fish. On a Monday evening, the place was packed—lively with chatter, the clink of glasses, and the unmistakable shake of cocktails. The walls are covered in eclectic artwork that Rick and Jill have collected over the years, whilst a glistening central bar, adorned with colourful coral and glowing lighthouses, draws you in.

Dozens of smiling staff glide through the expansive, thoughtfully designed space, trays piled high with fruits de mer, pausing to chat with guests like they have all the time in the world. This glittering restaurant exudes understated elegance, perfectly paired with a warm, buzzing atmosphere that’s impossible to resist, and a joy to be part of.

The Stein family remain proudly hands-on and have nurtured a skilful and caring team who know how to make feel guests happy and relaxed. And as for the food - buttery sashimi paired with silky sake; a pile of hot shellfish steamed and then doused in chilli, garlic and smooth olive oil; the freshest turbot served simply with good hollandaise, and

perfect profiteroles slathered in warm chocolate sauce.

All this plus a truly excellent kumquat and mezcal sour and a bottle of Stein’s delicious white Burgundy. I don’t use the word iconic lightly, but in the case of The Seafood Restaurant it feels entirely fitting.

Breakfast there is another veritable feast: chunky granola, delicately spiced kedgeree, and sweet, freshly squeezed orange juice.

Full to the brim once more, I set off for a day of exploring – but like a fish on a line, I found myself gravitating back to ‘The Seafood’. I made my way up on to restaurant’s impressive terrace, far from the madding crowds, and slipped into a seat with glorious views across the estuary. A bottle of Stein’s Blanc de Blancs was promptly popped, accompanied by a few light nibbles. A seagull made a swoop for one of my juicy Kalamata olives, and who could blame him? In North Cornwall, the delicious temptations are everywhere, and they are all utterly irresistible.

WHERE to stay

From luxurious hotel rooms to characterful cottages, these are North Cornwall’s finest places to stay, where coastal charm meets contemporary comfort

1

THE PIG-AT HARLYN BAY

Housed in the 15th-century Harlyn House—a beautiful building steeped in history and atmosphere—this laid-back yet luxurious hotel is filled with stormy seascapes, roaring fires, and character at every turn. Just moments from the beach, 26 beautiful bedrooms blend deep comfort with quirky charm, some with far-reaching sea views. There are also four cosy shepherd’s huts dotted around the gardens.

 From £295 room only; thepighotel. com/at-harlyn-bay

1

4 2 3 5 6

2

PLUM COTTAGE

In the heart of Padstow, this beautifully restored Grade IIlisted cottage has wow factor interiors and a palpable sense of cosiness. Sleeping four across two sumptuous bedrooms, it’s a masterclass in maximalist style. A carefully curated mix of patterned wallpapers, rich textures, eclectic art, and antique furniture, while soft lighting, an open fireplace, panelled walls, and brimming bookshelves make it feel irresistibly charming.

 From £600 for a three-night stay; atlantatrevonebay.com

ST EDMUNDS HOUSE

Of all the accommodation that Rick Stein offers in and around Padstow, none charm quite like St Edmund’s House. Hidden in the heart of town, this tranquil hideaway, with its beautifully landscaped gardens and trickling fountains, feels like a wellkept secret. The six New Englandinspired bedrooms feel effortlessly chic and palpably serene, with sleek four-poster beds and deep freestanding tubs. Downstairs rooms spill out onto private terraces, while those upstairs come with Juliette balconies and expansive views of the Camel Estuary.

 From £380; rickstein.com

4

2 QUAY COTTAGES

Perched on the serene shores of the Camel Estuary where sailboats bob with the tide, this staggeringly luxurious self-catering cottage is one of Rock’s bestkept secrets. With picture-perfect views from every window, it blends sumptuous comfort with colour, pattern and timeless elegance. Sleeping up to ten across five stylish bedrooms, highlights include a spacious kitchen, a snug sitting room with woodburning stove, and a master bathroom with a huge roll-top tub.

 From £1950 for 7 nights; latitude50.co.uk

5

OUTLAW’S GUEST HOUSE

6

BODMIN JAIL HOTEL

Further afield, moving inland from the north coast, lies a very different kind of hotel experience. Book the luxurious ‘Governor’s Experience’ at Bodmin Jail Hotel and you’ll spend the night in this former 18th-century prison on the edge of Bodmin Moor, enjoying a private historian-led tour and a seven-course banquet, followed by a paranormal guide as darkness falls. Alternatively, opt for something that no other hotel in Cornwall can offer, the ‘Prisoner Experience’ and ‘do some time’ in a plush cell.

 From £195 for an overnight stay; bodminjailhotel.com

With just nine simply furnished, comfy bedrooms (some with sea view balconies), this thoughtfully renovated Victorian guest house has sweeping views across Port Isaac Bay. Run by a genuinely warm and welcoming team, it feels more like staying with friends than at a hotel. Guests are treated to delicious daily bakes, while breakfast is crafted with the same skill and attention to detail found in Outlaw’s excellent nearby restaurants.  From £195 B&B. 2- and 3- night ‘Foodie Getaway’ packages also available; outlaws.co.uk//outlaws-guest-house

EXTRA bites

Where freshly caught seafood and culinary creativity meets coastal flavour

PRAWN ON THE LAWN

This popular Padstow restaurant serves fresh seafood and flavour-packed small plates with a sense of fun. The menu changes daily and the space is small, so book ahead. Just down the road, its sister spot, Little Prawn, serves a similar menu.

 prawnonthelawn.com

THE ROCKET STORE

This tiny bar/restaurant in Boscastle Harbour serves fresh seafood from its own boat, meat from its own farm alongside other top notch local ingredients.

 therocketstore.co.uk

CAMEL VALLEY VINEYARD

Pop in for a tour and tasting or simply enjoy a glass—or two—of Camel Valley’s exceptional Cornish overlooking the vines. The best way to get there is to cycle along The Camel Trail.

 camelvalley.com

ST

KEW INN

A picture-perfect 15th-century inn not far from Port Isaac. Brimming with character and charm, it serves well-kept beer and excellent food.

 stkewinn.co.uk

PRIDEAUX WALLED GARDEN

Don’t miss the small plates, natural wines and exceptionally delicious cakes served in this beautiful walled garden and cosy café hidden away in the heart of Padstow.

 prideauxwalledgarden.co.uk

ELECTRIC BAKERY

This popular artisan bakery in Bude sells superb sourdough bread, pastries, seasonal food and speciality coffee (take away only). Get there early.

 electricbakery.co

STEIN’S FISH AND CHIPS

Stein’s, located by the quay in Padstow, serves some of the very best fish and chips in the UK.

 rickstein.com

FEE’S FOOD

This sophisticated café / deli in Rock is brimming with freshly made food, tasty freezer meals and trendy store cupboard essentials.

 feesfood.co.uk

ST KEW FARMSHOP

This well-stocked and well-designed farm shop is also home to a beautifully curated lifestyle and plant store and a modern café that serves flavoursome breakfasts, lunches and cakes.

 stkewfarmshop.co.uk

BARNABY’S

Nestled within Trevibban Mill vineyard near Padstow, Barnaby’s - sister restaurant to Prawn on the Lawn - serves similar seasonal small plates but with more meat and Middle Eastern flavours.

 prawnonthelawn.com

PLONK’D

This fun and friendly independent bar in Wadebridge takes its cue from the vibrant bars of Northern Spain, specialising in interesting wines, tasty pintxos, and delicious cocktails.

 plonkd.co.uk

LITTLE EARS

This lovely little neighbourhood restaurant in Newquay specialises in fresh pasta, Mediterranean-inspired dishes, and homemade seasonal gelato.

 littleearspasta.com

PADSTOW KITCHEN GARDEN

Field-to-fork feasts, cookery courses and fresh produce, nurtured by 7th generation farmer and former Rick Stein head chef, Ross Geach. The lobster lunches are incredible.

 padstowkitchengarden.co.uk

COUNTER CULTURE

Creative small plates and pintxos combine bold flavour with locally sourced produce at this award-winning San Sebastiáninspired bar and restaurant in Newquay.

 pintxocornwall.co.uk

COTTAGE core

As the nights draw in, British Travel Journal discovers some of the UK’s cosiest cottages, perfectly primed for seasonal adventures and snug evenings by the fire...

Text by Sophie Farrah

BEST FOR PEACE AND SECLUSION

Granary Cottage at Ennys, West Cornwall

If you’re looking for a restorative winter getaway, make a beeline for Ennys. Set in 20 acres of wild pasture and beautifully kept gardens (which guests are welcome to enjoy, along with the beautiful outdoor swimming pool and an enchanting woodland trail), this secluded Georgian manor farm has four cosy cottages carefully converted from the former granary and dairy. Granary Cottage

is a snug and chicly furnished hideaway for two. You’ll arrive to fresh scones, birdsong, and beautifully arranged flowers from the garden, courtesy of friendly owner, Karen. The beamed sitting room has a wood burner and large sofa at its heart, and sits alongside a smart fitted kitchen, small dining area, and French doors that lead out on to a pretty private terrace. Upstairs, the vintage Frenchinspired bedroom is irresistibly romantic, with exposed beams, a high ceiling and double aspect windows, as well as luxuries like French bed linen, waffle bath robes and

a super king-sized bed. The bathroom has a spacious walk-in shower and glorious views over the beautifully landscaped gardens and Peter Rabbit-esque greenhouse beyond. You’re in prime position for exploring the many wonders of West Cornwall – you’ll find Penzance, St Ives, Prussia Cove and so much more nearby, but you may well find it hard to tear yourself away from the deep peace and seclusion of Ennys.

 From £142 per night, minimum 3 nights; ennys.co.uk

2

BEST FOR WELLNESS WOW FACTOR

Blockhouse Cottage, Tresco

With most properties on Tresco closed over the winter months, Blockhouse Cottage offer a rare opportunity to experience this beautiful island off season. Nestled below its iconic namesake and above the sweeping sands of Green Porth, this wow factor, wellness-led property boats an unbeatable location and awe-inspiring sea views. It

has all the cosiness of a cottage combined with stunning contemporary interior design and enough bedrooms and living space to comfortably accommodate 14 people, making it perfectly pitched for a group gateway. Reflecting the coastal surroundings, sleek interiors feature natural materials such as limestone and wood, while other rooms have ferns, coral wallpaper, and custom-made shell mirrors. Ideally positioned for storm watching, guests can keep cosy by the lovely open log

fire, or warm up even further in the plush property’s very own state-of-the-art sauna and steam room. There’s also a private yoga and Reformer Pilates studio tucked away in the garden, and endless top-spec mod-cons including a Bertazzoni oven, a 65” 4K TV, Sonos sounds system, steam showers and more. And outside, you’ll find that you have Tresco almost entirely to yourself…

 From £6,065 per week; tresco.co.uk

3

BEST FOR FAIRYTALE FEELS

Philham Water Cottage, Devon

If you were to imagine a quintessential fairy-tale cottage, it might look a lot like Philham Water Cottage. Nestled beside a babbling brook in Devon’s spectacular Hartland Peninsula, this utterly charming one-up, one-down was built in the 15th century and is rumoured to be the oldest

4

BEST FOR A HISTORIC GRANDEUR

The Treasury, Norfolk

Designed by Thomas Ripley, this Grade II listed ground floor cottage offers a deep sense of both history and luxury from the minute you cross its handsome threshold. Sat on the private 150-acre estate of Wolterton Park and forming the south side of the entrance lodges, The Treasury is named after the origins of the building - it was once used as a secure location for funds and accounts managed by Lord Walpole and his butler. Today, it’s a romantic retreat for two complete with period furnishings, Persian carpets, tapestries and artwork. There is a chic kitchen, cosy bedroom and an elegant sitting room with an open fireplace, but the jewel in The Treasury’s crown is its beautifully

cottage of its kind in the county. With its cute thatched roof blending seamlessly into the unspoilt landscape, the cottage has pretty, relaxed gardens both front and back. Its interiors are similarly charming - a well-worn velvet armchair and squishy sofa surround the ancient fireplace; there’s a well-equipped kitchen and bathroom (both practical, not posh), and you’ll be snug as a bug in the

light and airy double bedroom with its cosy, quilted bed. The secluded setting makes Philham Water Cottage a perfect countryside hideaway, but if you did want to explore the local area, craggy coastline, terrific walks and the charming villages of Hartland and Clovelly are all nearby…

 From £99 per night; sawdays.co.uk

designed bathroom with vaulted ceiling, exposed brickwork and a cast iron bath. Guests are welcome to explore the estate during their stay; Wolterton Park offers endless walks as well as canoeing on the lake, horse riding, archery and clay pigeon shooting all on-site, whilst the North Norfolk coast is just

six miles away. However, if you’d prefer to stay ensconced in your historic hideaway, beauty treatments and the services of a private chef can be arranged

 From £896 for a short break and £1,194 per week; ruralretreats.co.uk

5

BEST FOR CONTEMPORARY COOL

The Barrels, St Agnes, Cornwall

Tucked into the cliff-side high above Trevaunance Cove, The Barrels blends wow factor modern architecture and inspiring design with all the cosiness and charm of a Cornish seaside cottage. The result is a one-of-a-kind holiday home that can accommodate 10 guests across three floors, five beautiful bedrooms and four bathrooms. Behind the original stone facade of the former miners’ cottages, the spectacular use of light and space is emphasised by full height ceilings, vast glass windows and the merging of old and new as sandy stone walls meet an impressive poured concrete stairway. There’s a serene open plan living, dining and kitchen space with views of the sea and coastline, a private gym and yoga studio, spacious games room and a surround sound cinema room – perfect for cosy movie nights. Outside, beautifully landscaped gardens have two generous terraces and a 6-seater cedar hot tub – a huge pleasure, whatever the weather. Nearby you’ll find the lovely village of St Agnes and moments from the door is Trevaunance Cove - a beautiful sandy beach with stunning walks in both directions.

 From £3,525 per week; cornishgems.com

6

BEST FOR NOSTALGIC ADVENTURES

Coed y Bleiddiau, Gwynedd

How do you like the sound of arriving at your picture-perfect cottage by steam train? Well at Coed y Bleiddiau, you can. Set within the breathtaking scenery of the Eryri National Park, this small railway cottage sits at a remote private halt on the restored Ffestiniog Railway and has its own private platform from which guests can alight. Coed y Bleiddiau – meaning ‘Wood of the Wolves’ – was built in 1863 for local railway superintendent, T. Henry Hovenden, from Welsh slate and granite. Hunkering low into the mountain slope with woodland all around, it offers up wonderful birdwatching opportunities. This cute cottage’s low eaves and thick walls were built for snugness; two cosy bedrooms sleep four in total, along with a bathroom, charming kitchen and a comfy sitting room with a wood burning stove. Outside, you can explore the stunning local landscape on what is considered one of the most scenic railways in Britain. Catch the train, from right outside your doorstep, to the harbour in Porthmadog, regarded the gateway to Snowdonia, and switch to its sister line, the Welsh Highland Railway, which travels to Caernarfon across the foothills of Snowdon.

Or, if you’d prefer to travel on foot, the cottage sits at the heart of over 30km of footpaths on the Dyffryn Maentwrog and Llyn Mair network, which includes the enchanting lake Llyn Mair.

 From £504 for a mid-week break; landmarktrust.org.uk

7

BEST FOR HOTEL LUXURY

Forest Cottages, Lime Wood, the New Forest

If you like the idea of a secluded selfcatering spot that comes with all the convenience of a five-star hotel, then look no further. Nestled in the heart of the New Forest, luxury country house hotel Lime Wood has two Forest Cottages tucked away in its green and pleasant grounds. Surrounded by forest and meadows, each one contains a kitchenette (complete with a Smeg fridge stuffed with goodies, and freshly baked bread left each day), and a dining and living area with a snug log fire. Upstairs there’s a chic master bedroom with king sized bed and a bathroom with a freestanding bath and double monsoon shower. Cottage 1 has a downstairs twin bedroom and Cottage 2 has an upstairs bunk bedroom, and both have an additional bathroom. Rustic yet sophisticated with stripped oak floors and luxurious details, these two cosy cottages (which can be interconnected making them perfect for larger families or groups) are totally private, but with Lime Wood’s fabulous facilities, which include a stunning spa and restaurant by renowned chef Angela Hartnett and Lime Wood’s Luke Holder, just a short walk away. It’s the best of both worlds.

 From £1,400 per night; limewoodhotel.co.uk/ rooms/forest-cottages-cabin

8BEST FOR COTSWOLDS CHARM

Home Farm House, Barnsley

Laid back yet luxurious hotel group THE PIG opened its latest venture in 2024. The PIG-in The Cotswolds has its very own village pub just a short stroll away, as well as a brand-new cottage that couldn’t be cosier. Nestled in the picture-perfect village of Barnsley, complete with honey-coloured houses and rambling roses that frame Farrow & Ball’d front doors, Home Farm House is a traditional Cotswold stone cottage with plenty of farmhouse charm combined with the unique style and luxurious attention to detail that THE PIG is known for. There are three cosy, elegant bedrooms, a fully equipped kitchen, snug sitting room, a characterful dining room with log burner, games room, and a small private garden. All you need, and more. It’s just a short stroll from the both The Village Pub and the hotel (which has a fabulous restaurant, glorious gardens and a small spa offering), and guests are welcome to spend time at either. Plus, the market town of Cirencester and Cotswolds hotspots Bibury, Burford and Bourton-on-thewater are all nearby, making this chocolate box cottage a perfect base for exploring this famously beautiful part of the world.

 From £595 per night (2-night minimum stay), book via The Village Pub; thevillagepub.co.uk

9

BEST FOR GOTHIC ROMANCE

Hansa, Shropshire

Set in complete seclusion within the 12,000-acre Bradford Estates, Hansa is a luxurious off-grid getaway lifted straight from the pages of a fantasy novel. Sat on the Shropshire-Staffordshire border, this Victorian gothic cottage was originally built to host the Earl of Bradford’s fishing and shooting luncheons. Since then, it has been lovingly restored to celebrate its fairytale

BEST FOR A WILDERNESS ESCAPE

Coorie, Wester Ross

In the northwest of the Scottish Highlands, Wester Ross is a region known for its dramatic mountains, rugged coastline, and beautiful sea lochs. Nestled between Achnasheen and Achanalt, Coorie is a remote wilderness escape where your only neighbours are the local birds and occasional wild stag. Blending rustic charm with stylish and serene muted tones throughout, every window offers postcard-worthy views across the surrounding mountains. There’s a chic and cosy living room with a roaring wood burning stove, a modern kitchen and dining space, and three beautiful bedrooms, whilst outside there’s

otherworldliness and showcase the beauty of its setting. Today, an ivy-entwined chandelier hangs from the upper beams, casting a gentle glow around Hansa’s original 1856 panelled walls.

This is an open-plan cottage in studio style, with the beautiful sleeping and living spaces combined. Outside, there is more magic to be found; a small wooden gate leads to a boardwalk and your very own rowing boat, bobbing on a beautiful lake.

Behind the cottage, a woodfired hot tub awaits, ready to be fired up whatever the weather. Other lovely touches include a welcome hamper filled with local treats, marshmallows for the fire, two vintage-style bicycles, and his-and-hers Hunter wellington boots, but the greatest luxury of them all is Hansa’s unique beauty.

 From £1,095 for a short break, £1,450 per week; uniquehomestays.com

a firepit to keep you warm whilst star gazing. Whether you’re looking to hunker down, embrace the beauty of the nearby River Bran, or find a central base from which to explore the Highlands, Skye and the NC500, this

luxury retreat for six beckons for a restorative staycation immersed in nature.

 From £952 for a long weekend or mid-week break; boutique-retreats.co.uk

Travel-inspired Christmas gifts

If you’re dreaming of wintry adventures and next year’s holiday plans, it’s likely that everyone on your festive gift list is, too. So, we’ve pulled together a few stylish accessories for the travel enthusiasts in your life

Text by Amy Bonifas

Clues & Reviews

Enjoy our crossword puzzle about some of the places we love and have featured in this edition!

ACROSS

1 “Little” Newquay restaurant (4)

4 Organic Cotswold farm shop (10)

9 Winchester and Southampton river (6)

10 Amazonian crusher (8)

11 “King of the road” (5)

12 Fish with whiplike tails (9)

14 Old Spanish gold coin (8)

17 Carless Channel Island (4)

20 Depression fighter (1,1,1,1)

21 Thingamajigs (8)

23 Made the point (3,6)

26 Reliable information (5)

29 Prawn on the Lawn’s Padstow restaurant (8)

30 Welsh hamlet known for mineral water (2,4)

31 Roman emperor who persecuted Christians (10)

32 Four ---, Rock, where girls can eat, too (4)

DOWN

2 Waiting areas (9)

3 Cambridgeshire town notorious for a rail disaster and two child murders (5)

4 Low sandhill (4)

5 Dough raiser (5)

6 One who loved Lancelot (6)

7 Recliner parts (9)

8 --- Hall, North Yorkshire boutique hotel (5)

13 Glen ---, Lochaber nature reserve (3)

15 --- Explorer, luxury sleeper train (9)

16 Forest containing the Rufus Stone (3)

18 Sussex wine estate (9)

19 Three-legged island? (3)

22 Fit for ploughing (6)

24 Congolese animal with striped legs (5)

25 Japanese fish dish (5)

27 Stevie Wonder speciality (1,3,1)

28 College or mess (4)

For a chance to win a prize send a picture of your completed crossword, or email a list of the answers; crossword@britishtraveljournal.com

1. Old-school cool

Nothing says vintage like this centenary 4-wheel carry-on (you can even engrave your beloved’s initials onto the leather), £1,695, globe-trotter.com

2. Paper trail

Joy travel journal, with space to record favourite memories and write highlights, £29, papier.com

3. Jet-set jotter

Elevate your journal writing experience with this gorgeous Wiggle Top ballpoint pen, £12, paper.com

4. Point and click

For creative types, this Fujifilm Instax Mini Evo camera creates instant physical retro-style pics, and digital images, £174, johnlewis.com

5. And so to bed

We love this lavender pillow spray made with 100% naturally derived ingredients, £18, bramleyproducts.co.uk

BRANDS we love

6. Primus Trail Flow

Impress even the most discerning off-road runners with these new Vivobarefoot lightweight trail shoes, made with a 100% recycled breathable mesh upper, £150, vivobarefoot.com/uk

ANSWERS TO OUR SUMMER 2025 CROSSWORD

Across: 9 One and all, 10 Fidra, 11 Macrame, 12 Glen noe, 13 Harry’s, 14 Red meat, 17 Rugby, 18 Cat, 19 Miaow, 20 Gas jets, 22 Slough, 24 Obliged, 27 Enlarge, 28 Stein, 29 Cricketer.

Down: 1 Louma, 2 Sea changes, 3 Unfairly, 4 Haversacks, 5 Flag, 6 Ifield, 7 Eden, 8 Hadestown, 14 Rotisserie, 15 Exaggerate, 16 Brighouse, 19 Moonlike, 21 Egging, 23 Merry, 25 Leer, 26 Duc.

Luxury Spaces

Bruar Quilt Jackets, shot on location at The Torridon Hotel on Scotland’s West Coast. Request our new Autumn/Winter catalogue by calling 01796 483236 or visit